Month: December 2019

I Have a Lemon Tree That Is Two Years Old and Has Never Bloomed; Is There Something Wrong?

Lemon trees (Citrus limon) are self-pollinating citrus plants which may be grown year-round. Lemons, like other citrus trees, typically keep a complete crop set within 3 decades of planting. When you purchase a orange tree in a pot, then it has generally been growing for approximately 1 to 2 decades, but this pre-planting age doesn’t count towards the tree official age. If your tree has been in the ground for many years and isn’t thriving, then there are different chances to investigate like an environmental imbalance or disease.

Complete Maturity

It is possible that a 2-year-old lemon tree hasn’t reached maturity. The average time from putting a citrus tree until plants can be picked is just 1 to 2 decades, but it may be as long as 3 years to 4 years depending on individual growth patterns. Trees will not bloom until they reach maturity, because it’s the initial step in reproduction. Blooms also just emerge on a schedule throughout the year. They’re generally most abundant in the spring, but small flourishes can happen in fall and summer.

Environmental Factors

Lemon trees have a very low cold tolerance. If the tree is situated in the improper hardiness zone, it might never bloom. Citrus trees grow best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10. Late frosts, drought or intense heat may kill young blooms and lead them to fall off or shrivel until the tree has a chance to develop the fruit. In this case, the tree might bloom, but you never see the blossoms. Improper water balance may also cause a delay in or lack of blooming. Lemon trees like routine water with quick drainage, so a very rainy season may cause problems.

Soil Requirements

Lemons require just the right balance of nutrients within their soil. A lack of blooms can be a sign that your tree is suffering from mineral deficiencies. Spread 2 tablespoons of nitrogen under a tree less than 4 years old, indicates the University of California Riverside Research Facility. Duplicate this application three to four times throughout the year, followed by a freezer. Double the amount to 4 tablespoons from the next year of treatment, irrespective of age. Together with nutrient worries, the pH level may also affect a tree’s overall wellness. Citrus trees prefer soils with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of between 6.0 and 7.5.

Rootstock Compatibility

If all else appears normal, it is possible that your lemon tree has a bad graft. Like many other vegetables, lemon trees are most frequently the product of grafting to keep them true to cultivar type. This process requires a scion, a piece of small branch from a donor tree, and attaches it to the roots and trunk of another tree, the rootstock. There’s usually some benefit the rootstock offers the scion, such as faster growth or an alteration in tree size. There are a few combinations of lemon cultivar rootstock and scion which are incompatible in addition to a few viruses that may attack a graft and cause it to fail. A physical malformation is the defining symptom of a bad graft. The area location between the scion and rootstock might split, crack, bump or appear otherwise abnormal. In this case, there’s very little you can do besides buy a new tree.

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The way to Add Soil to My Perennial Garden

An established garden benefits from the inclusion of fresh dirt, particularly in the kind of compost, on a regular basis. Compost improves water retention in sandy soil and decreases soil compaction in clay soil, enhancing the garden. Simply adding topsoil does little to improve the dirt in a perennial garden, but it’s helpful for replacing dirt lost through erosion and to raise the soil level.

Benefits of Topdressing

The simplest way to add soil or compost into a perennial garden is by way of topdressing, which involves spreading a thin layer of the material throughout the garden bed surface. With that procedure, no need is to incorporate the new dirt or compost to the current soil, a process which can disturb plants’ roots. Rain and earthworms take the new material deeper into the garden throughout the course of the growing season. Regularly adding compost in this manner helps improve the garden total quality by stabilizing the soil’s pH level and helping the dirt maintain nutrients.

Topdressing Procedure

When topdressing your perennial garden with soil or compost, apply a 1- to 2-inch-thick layer of the material throughout the garden’s soil surface however involving the plants. The job requires 8 to 16 cubic feet of compost per 100 square feet of garden area, and also the number of cubic feet of topsoil needed may fluctuate. Compost supplies nutrients in addition to other natural material, and a annual application of it in spring can remove the need for supplementary fertilizers in a perennial garden. Perennial plants which require a lot of fertilizer may benefit from a summer feeding in addition to the spring compost application. It can be supplied with a fibrous, all-purpose plant food with an nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium ratio of 24-8-16. Mix 1 tbsp fertilizer per 1 gallon of water for every 10 square foot of dirt surface at the perennial garden, and use the mix to water the dirt of just the perennials that need extra fertilizer.

Addition of a Larger Amount

If topdressing does not add enough fresh dirt to the perennial bed, even more extreme measures are required. Taking away the perennials before adding soil is imperative to avoid burying the plants. Fall is the best time for raising perennials out of the garden to add dirt, even though it can be carried out in spring if necessary. Work fast to add the desired amount of dirt prior to the plants’ roots dry. An option is to function in stages by lifting a few plants from the bed, then adding dirt, and then replanting those perennials prior to moving into a different part of the garden to repeat the process. Water perennials’ dirt well after replanting, and continue watering it as needed to keep it moist for the next few weeks.

Soil and Compost Selection

When adding soil or compost into your perennial garden, then the material you use is equally as important as how you apply it into the garden. Use only adult compost, which can be compost which has thoroughly decomposed. Partially decomposed compost which isn’t well-aged has a greater level of soluble salts than adult compost and may harm garden plants. Well-aged compost also includes fewer weed seeds. When selecting new dirt, choose a dirt mixture described as “topsoil” or “garden dirt.” Bagged mixes typically contain high levels of organic matter.

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Garden Care Tips on How to Kill Crabgrass Without Killing Plants

Crabgrass is an annual grass that invades flower beds and lawns, but a range of methods provide control without harming plants. Also called summer grass, crowfoot grass and watergrass, crabgrass varieties include smooth crabgrass (Digitaria ischaemum) and large or hairy crabgrass (Digitaria ischaemum). Controlling crabgrass involves removing or spraying the plants and preventing crabgrass seeds from sprouting.

Spreading Mulches

Mulches effectively control crabgrass in garden beds. Crabgrass is shallow rooted and easy to pull up, but crabgrass seeds in the soil sprout year after year. Covering the soil with a mulch blocks light in the seeds and prevents them from invading. Remove crabgrass plants, and a spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of fine mulch or a 3- to 6-inch layer of coarse mulch, avoiding plant stems. Fine mulches contain leaf mold, garden compost and well-rotted manure. Wood chips, shredded bark and straw are a few examples of coarse mulches. Rake the mulch surface to disturb any stray crabgrass seedlings, or pull them out. Top up the mulch layer since it thins out, which is usually annually or semi-annually.

Using Herbicides

Selective herbicides control crabgrass without harming plants. Fluazifop and other selective herbicides control grasses but do not affect broad-leaved plants. Lightly spray a ready-to-use product containing 0.48 percent fluazifop-p-butyl over the middle of the crabgrass plants when they’re actively growing. Spray the plants after seven weeks and repeat as often as required. Don’t spray crabgrass herbicides near ornamental grasses. Pre-emergent herbicides like pendimethalin avoid crabgrass seeds from sprouting. Spread ready-to-use granules containing 1.71 percent pendimethalin at a speed of 4 oz per 125 square foot over the bare soil in early spring. Water the granules if it does not rain within 48 hours. Pre-emergent herbicides produce a chemical barrier on the soil surface, so don’t disturb the soil because this makes them less successful. Don’t sow seeds for four months and then do not plant sprigs for five months later using pre-emergent herbicides because they affect most other seeds and very young plants.

Solarizing the Soil

Soil solarization commands crabgrass plants and seeds to a depth of 6 inches or heavier. This process works well when you’re preparing a crabgrass infested area for a garden. Soil solarization involves covering bare soil in transparent plastic, which heats up the soil as deep as 18 inches below the surface, making conditions where weeds and other pests can’t survive. Dig a trench 4 to 6 inches deep across the crabgrass-infested area, and water the soil until it’s moist to 12 inches deep. Place a plastic sheet 1 to 4 millimeters thick over the ground and repair the borders in the trenches by covering them with soil. Solarization controls crabgrass very best when the weather is clear and hot for four to six weeks, like over the summertime.

Controlling Crabgrass in Lawns

Crabgrass is a frequent weed in lawns, but you can control it without harming turfgrass. Scatter pre-emergent herbicide granules to prevent crabgrass seeds encased in spring, and mow, irrigate and fertilize your lawn frequently so the turfgrass grows strongly and out-competes crabgrass. Be sure to read the herbicide label to make sure the product does not injure the turfgrass you’re growing. Set your mower blades at the correct height to the grass type, like 1 to 1 1/2 ins for bermudagrass (Cynodon dactylon). Irrigate your lawn weekly during dry weather so the soil is continually moist but never soaked, and feed it frequently. For example, employ a 10-0-5 lawn feed at a rate of 8 ounces per 100 square foot six times over the growing season, or use the product based on the directions on the label. Bermudagrass rises in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10.

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How to Get Rid of Weeds Out Of Basalt Driveways

Basalt is occasionally utilized in driveways in the form of crushed rock or pavers. Its dark, durable and dense, rich shade provides a attractive driveway — but it also means that dinosaurs stand out sharply against the dark rock. You may prefer methods — particularly if the compounds run off down the drive and into a yard or plants although weeds will be killed by chemical controls. Hand-pulling can be powerful, but it can be time-consuming if you’ve got lot of weeds. When the weeds are prevalent, try something you might already have in your kitchen cupboard: vinegar or salt. Salt ruins the dirt for any plants. It is a fantastic method to use on driveways, but make sure you don’t receive any of the salty or salt water on neighboring plants. Vinegar will not ruin dirt, but plants will be killed by it use the very same precautions when spraying vinegar — a still day with no wind is best so the spray doesn’t drift.

Salt for Weeds

Pour into a bowl.

Scoop out the salt using a spoon, and then sprinkle it directly.

The plants that are succulent using some water. The weeds will dry out , killing them.

Pull up the weeds that are dead and eliminate them, or sweep them away.

Hot Salty Water

Bring 2 cups of water to a boil.

Add 1 cup of salt.

Pour the boiling water on the weeds, taking care to protect your hands, and skin. Salt and the hot water both will work to kill the weeds.

Eliminate by sweeping them off or pulling up them of the driveway.

Vinegar for Weeds

White or apple cider vinegar into a spray bottle. Do this if there isn’t any rain forecast for 48 hours.

Spray the vinegar onto the middle of each pot, or onto the blossom if it has not yet produced seeds.

Spray the foundation of each pot using the vinegar.

Pull up or sweep away the weed when it is dead.

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Majestic Gas Stove Troubleshooting

A Majestic gas cooker provides an effective option if you want to heat a room in your home without turning on a heating apparatus. The brand offers a variety of models. But whatever kind of Majestic cooker you have, you might encounter difficulties from time to time, for example even the ignitor or odd smells during surgery. Even though you can resolve some of these issues yourself, don’t be afraid to telephone a service technician that is trained if you suspect problems beyond your skill level to troubleshoot and fix.

Pilot and Ignitor

Locate the pilot gathering for your version dependent on the operator’s manual. After the stove’s spark ignitor won’t produce a pilot flame, the electrode of the pilot could be faulty or misaligned. Eliminate the glass door before lighting the pilot. Check whether the control knob is set to the”Pilot” position. Hold a lighted match over the pilot orifice; turn it off and push the red ignitor button to engage the ignitor, when it lights. Measure the distance to confirm the gap between the electrode and pilot is 1/8 inch, which allows room to get a spark, if the pilot fails to light via the ignitor.

Defective Ignitor

If the ignitor itself is faulty, your cooker may fail to start. Put the control knob to the”Pilot” position, push it in all of the way in and hold it to test for a spark at the ignitor toward the pilot. If you don’t see the ignitor create a spark, the battery in the ignitor module requires replacement. Replace the whole ignitor module box, if the spark ignitor does not light after changing the battery.

Pilot Fails to Remain On

A thermocouple unit may keep the pilot light. Analyze it to confirm it is on the back of the valve. Air could be if the thermocouple is connected. Speak to your merchant because the gas line has to be bled with a repair expert to remove the air. If it does not have a sufficient gas distribution, your cooker may fail to remain on. Check for a complete tank, as important. The shutoff valve is available by verifying the red handle is directly in line with the gas line.

Burner Fails to Come On

After the stove pilot lights nice but the burner won’t light, the burner orifice might be clogged. Insert and remove a pipe cleaner in the orifice to clean it. The burner can neglect to light if the width of the burner orifice is too little, which keeps it from working. Speak with your dealer whether the diameter is a issue to find out if needed and replace. Confirm that the gas pressure for your cooker is low — contact the local gas company to have your gas link is examined by an experienced service person.

Strange Smells Throughout Operation

When your stove gives off odors it is generally a result of residue burn-off due to the production procedure. Open a window or vent the room until the smell is gone, and turn the cooker on high. It generally takes about six hours of constant use to eliminate the smell. Your cooker might also give off smells if it is burning vapors from paint, glue, hairspray, air fresheners or other household things in the air of the room. Adequately ventilate the room and do not use odor-producing goods while the cooker is on. If you smell gas when it’s turned off or once the oven is in operation, you might have a gas flow. Contact your local gas company immediately to locate and fix any leaks.

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The Way to Create a Lampshade Pendant Light

Brighten up a dark or dull room with an overhead pendant lighting custom-crafted from a lampshade. The project takes a little expertise with a glue gun and also the easiest of lamp-wiring abilities, but the result is an inexpensive and ceiling lighting that is one-of-a-kind and satisfying. Make one lamp to the dining room or a row of smaller pendants to line up over a kitchen island.

Cut fabric to fit around a plain drum lampshade with sufficient overlap at top and the base to fold across the rims so that you can glue it. You will overlap the side seam when gluing the fabric when the lighting is switched on however, the doubled cloth will show. So the two ends if at all possible, meet with no overlap Blend the side seam of the cloth to the lampshade precisely.

Hot glue the fabric to the exterior of the lampshade, folding the edges to the inside at bottom and the top and then gluing them. Cut a piece of grosgrain ribbon to glue around each of the bottom and top borders inside the lampshade at the rims, for a finish.

Remove the cord from the lamp kit from unscrewing and yanking the cable out of the canopy — the disc that covers the ceiling wiring and hole. Pull this cord up through the ring of this spider harp until the socket is flush with the harp. The lampshade will now dangle from the lamp fixture.

Re-thread the cord so that the ring will hang in the correct height and trim it. Secure the cable with the other hardware and the nut you eliminated to discharge it.

Before mounting the lamp, Switch off the power at the circuit breaker or fuse box. Enlist an experienced friend that will help you hire an electrician to hook it up safely, or hang and connect the ring. If you are confident you could manage the wiring that is simple, use a voltage checker to ensure that the power is off, then attach the mounting bracket and wires. The lamp kit will include directions. As you hold up the ring and fixture, A buddy on a ladder will do the connecting.

Twist the canopy correct the ring and screw in the correct wattage light bulb. Turn the power back on, flick the switch and revel in your new, bargain, pendant lamp that is decor-specific.

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The Way to Kill the Mold

Mold occurs on fabric, such as upholstered furniture, that is kept always in dank. It may also happen while they’re damp, if areas like sofa cushions, of the furniture, are stored in vinyl : Plastic does not allow material to breathe or atmosphere out. Eliminating the mold requires moisture that contributes to the problem and steps to remove the mold. The further airing out done after removing the mold, the less the carpeting will smell rancid after cleaning.

Take the furniture outdoors on a dry, non-humid day. Choose the cushions, pillows or some other removable components outside, if you’re not able to carry the entire article of furniture outdoors. Upholstery outdoors helps keep the mold.

Brush off all visible mold or discolored specks on the upholstery using a sterile wash brush or broom. While wearing a dust mask to prevent breathing in mold spores give a good brushing to the entire fabric. If cleaning indoors, place atop newspaper to capture any residue. Discard the newspaper carefully after.

Vacuum the furniture completely using an upholstery brush attachment. Permit the furniture to sit for several hours or even daily, if at all possible, to air out. Airing it out helps remove any moisture trapped to help avoid mold.

Mix equal parts water and rubbing alcohol in a bucket. Dip a sponge into the liquid and wash any stains that remain after vacuuming and brushing. First test the solution on an inconspicuous area to make sure it doesn’t discolor the fabric.

Spritz the furniture with white vinegar using a spray bottle with a fine-mist setting. Permit the furniture while still outdoors or in a well-ventilated, dry room with lots of daylight.

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Purple Shade Plants

Brighten up the darkened corners of your backyard with all the shade of purple. Many purple flowers flourish in the shade and bloom. Some are small and are perfect for containers onto a porch. Operate and others spread nicely as ground covers under a shade tree. Others are shrubs — perfect for filling up that cool, dark spot in your yard.


Trilliums (Trillium spp.) Are native wildflowers that grow well in the shade. Attempt”Trillium Purple,” that will bloom from spring through the summer. All these perennials, which grow best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3-8, are desirable for their distinctive, three-petaled purple blooms. They grow to a maximum height and width of 12 inches, and will fill a container well. Violets or pansies (Viola x wittrockiana) are a popular with home gardeners for their delicate faces. They can also be used as cut flowers. They grow best in USDA zones 8 to 11. Because they don’t like warmth, they are perfect for shade gardens in those zones. The purple shamrock (Oxalis triangularis) is a perennial notable for its own purple foliage. The triangular-shaped leaves also add interesting texture to a shade garden. Easy to grow, this plant thrives in USDA zones 6 to 10 and prefers shade.


Rhododendrons (Rhododendron spp.) Are a choice with home gardeners who need a big shrub that will bloom even in shady conditions. They come in many colors, but try Rhododendron catawbiense if you need one with authentic blooms. This plant grows best in USDA zones 4 to 8. Hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp.) , such as rhododendrons, have big clusters of flowers. Also they grow best in shade, as stated by the Clemson Cooperative Extension site. Try out Hydrangea macrophylla”Royal Purple” for a splash of lavender. This plant grows best in USDA zones 6 to 9.


Impatiens (Impatiens wallerana) are hardy annuals that thrive in shady areas. Because they are annuals, they can be grown in most USDA zones. Frequently used as border or container crops, they spread and will blossom long in cool conditions. Attempt”Celebration Light Lavender” should you desire a light purple that almost glows. Wax begonias (Begonia semperflorens) also grow well in the shade. “Party Pink Bronze Leaf” includes purplish-pink flowers and leaves that are green on top and dark purple beneath. Wax begonias, in most USDA zones, will grow such as impatiens.

Other Plants

The Purple Dragon lamium (Lamium spp.) Is a tough shade-loving floor cover which includes flowers that are vivid and leaves. The plant grows in USDA zones 2 to 9 and will reach a height of about 8 inches. The grape hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum) is an early spring-blooming shade bulb notable for its clusters of purple, bell-shaped flowers. This plant thrives in USDA zones 3 to 9, as stated by the University of Wisconsin Extension site. Bugleweed (Ajuga reptans) is a hardy ground cover grown primarily for its foliage. The cultivar”Atropurpurea” has bronze-purple leaves and grows well in the shade, according to the Missouri Botanical Garden site. This plant grows best in USDA zones 3 to 9.

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The Way to Identify Large Appliance Receptacles

120-volt 20-amp service is used by Conventional household power. You can tell the kind of electrical service by the holes for a plug to any outlet. A conventional plug has two square holes, the one slightly larger, with a hole below that has a top. A ground fault circuit interrupter plug includes those holes and. As adding circuits for a appliance can be very pricey for a purchaser in the Bay region, adequate wiring is essential in selling a home.


Kitchens are required under the National Electric Code to have GFCI outlets, which suffice for many appliances such as microwave ovens and garbage disposers. Larger appliances, such as refrigerators, have a similar plugin, but the left slot machine has a flat segment on the left side so that it resembles a”T” on its side. This indicates more powerful than household light, service.

220 Service

Because that is the minimum voltage that must be offered a 20-amp circuit is indicated by A similar outlet with all the right-side slot horizontal instead of vertical with 240 volts, commonly referred to service. This is usually used on a huge appliance such as an air compressor.


A larger outlet that has a rounded top rather than being rectangular signifies support with higher amperage. A 3-wire 240-volt outlet with 30-amp support has three holes, one at the top just like a backward”L” and 2 on the sides placed diagonally. This functions appliances such as kitchen ranges or clothes dryers.

4-Wire Outlet

A outlet is the largest. It has three rectangular slots in a triangle, with a fourth hole in the bottom with a round top plus one in the top. These are 50- or 60-amp circuits used for appliances that are big.

Circuit Breakers

Call an electrician if you have questions regarding the power coming to a home or into a specific outlet or consult a utility such as Pacific Gas & Electric. You also can look in a circuit breaker cupboard; breaker switches will be labeled with all the amperage and voltage for the circuits they control.

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The Way to Replace Window Cranks

Casement windows with opening mechanics are quite sturdy, but the cranks can strip over time and fail to work. In some cases, the crank is not the issue — the sash was painted closed on the exterior. If possible, inspect the outside of the window outside the home before replacing what appears to be a fold. Pull on the blade of a utility knife along the seam if the seam between the sash and the window jamb or sill is painted. Tools skills and some moderate effort are all you want to substitute it, if you decide that the crank is really the issue.

Turn the handle on the crank. If the fold will not turn, teeth or the splines on the little knob within the bottom of the deal are probably stripped. Pull the handle off the knob. Turn the knob knob with pliers or a small adjustable wrench to open the window.

Bushing in the end of the arm or adjust the window out or in by hand contrasts across the base of the window. Slip the wheel out of the track through the notch.

Eliminate any window trim if any trim exists that covers the surface of the fold. Some windows have a strip of timber covering the top of the fold, while other window cranks are seated atop the flat window stool or window jamb. Look, if your window has this kind of trim. Turn the screws counterclockwise with a horizontal or Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the trimming. If your trimming has no screws, then gently pry off the bar.

Turn the screws that fasten the fold to the window counterclockwise with a Phillips-head or horizontal screwdriver get rid of the fold.

Just take the old crank with you to purchase a replacement. Purchasing exactly the same size replacement is essential for proper functioning.

Fasten the crank to the window in the same spot at which you removed the old crank.

Adjust the window out or by hand to align bushing or the wheel in the arm’s end across the base of the window with the top notch from the track. Slip the wheel.

Set if you eliminated trim to get the fold the window trimming back in place. Turn the screws clockwise or tap on the finishing nails back in the window feces or jamb to reinstall the trimming.

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