Month: November 2020

The Best Kind of Blueberries to Plant

Blueberry bushes have to have a cool rest or chill period with temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit to produce berries. The best kind of blueberries for your own garden ought to be determined based on the customary length of trendy winter weather in your town. Southern highbush (Vaccinium formosum) blueberry species are generally best for warm Mediterranean climates. There are many different southern highbush varieties, though, with different growth habits and chill requirements. Other factors to be considered are your blueberry size and taste preferences and whether or not the bush will be included in a landscaped area.

Pollination Requirements

You need a minimum of two unique kinds of blueberry shrubs planted near each other for the best blueberry production. Some blueberry varieties require cross-pollination, and all blueberry varieties, such as self-pollinating kinds, will produce a better, more plentiful blueberry harvest using another cultivar planted nearby. Blueberry bush varieties with different ripening times could be implanted for cross-pollination and also to expand the harvest season.

Medium-Large Blueberries

The “Marimba” and “Jewel” southern highbush cultivars are two of the best kinds of blueberry bushes for company, medium-large blueberries with as few as 150 hours of chill time. “Marimba” is an ancient variety with flavorful berries which ripen in May. “Jewel” is a really early variety with berries ripening in April. Its berries can be picked just before they fully ripen for tart flavor, or allowed to ripen fully to get a more sweet taste.

Big Blueberries

The “O’Neal” southern highbush cultivar is one of the best kind of blueberry bushes for early-season, very large berries. It takes just 200 to 300 hours of chill and does well when planted inland or along the California shore. The bushes grow to a height of 6 feet with reddish stems and gray-green foliage. The berries have a sweet, mild taste.

Landscape-Quality Bushes

The “Misty” and “Sunshine Blue” southern highbush cultivars are two of the best kinds of lemons to plant in your home landscape. They have attractive bright pink flower buds and dark green foliage. “Misty” is an early-bearing bush with an erect growth habit which creates little to medium berries with a tart taste. It takes about 200 hours of winter chill to produce berries. “Sunshine Blue” is an early to midseason bush with a compact, weeping growth habit. It takes just 150 chill hours and creates little, tangy berries. With a mature height of only 3 feet, it may be expanded in a 5-gallon container on a deck or terrace.

Dwarf Blueberry Bush

“Top Hat” (V. angustifolium x V. corymbosum “Top Hat”) is a lowbush-northern highbush hybrid. It is among the best kind of blueberry bushes for growing at which space is very limited. This blueberry bush grows to a mature height of just 1 1/2 to 2 feet. It takes about 800 hours, or four to five weeks, of chill time to produce berries. The light blue, mild-flavored berries are small and ripen at midseason. This blueberry bush additionally provides fall foliage interest with leaves which change to bright red.

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The very best Drought-Tolerant Ground Cover

The ideal ground covers are low maintenance, stop erosion, cool the soil and also beautify the landscape. Some ground covers are fast to establish and many have extensive root systems that help prevent sediment. Ground covers with dense foliage shade the soil and preserve soil moisture, while flowering ground covers brighten the landscape. Many ground covers also are drought tolerant, once established. Choose the right drought-tolerant ground cover to suit your climate, landscape and aesthetics.

Fast-Growing Ground Covers

Fast-growing, drought-tolerant ground covers are helpful for covering large regions. Coyote brush (Baccharis pilularis), also called dwarf chaparral broom, and wild lilac (Ceanothus spp.) Are examples of drought-tolerant ground covers that fill in fast. Coyote brush and wild lilac grow well in U.S. Department of Agricultural plant hardiness zones 8 through 10. While coyote bush prefers sun to filtered shade, wild lilac thrives in sun to part shade. Plant coyote bush 2 to 3 feet apart and wild lilac 3 to 5 feet apart for good reporting. Other fast-growing, drought-tolerant ground covers include cotoneaster and Mexican daisy (Erigeron karvinskianus). Ground covers that develop rapidly often tend to be invasive. Prune excess growth to keep ground covers neat and contained.

Erosion-Controlling Ground Covers

Drought-tolerant ground covers that control erosion, especially on hillsides, have deep or extensive root systems. Creeping cotoneaster (Cotoneaster adpressus) and Aaron’s beard (Hypericum calycinum), also called “creeping St. Johnswort,” grow well on slopes. Creeping cotoneaster is a ground-hugging shrub for USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 10. It likes sun to partial shade, while Aaron’s beard will grow in sun or shade. Aaron’s beard is an evergreen shrub in USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 10. Plant creeping cotoneaster at least 3 feet apart and Aaron’s beard 18 inches apart. Other ground covers that are good for slopes are coyote brush, manazanita (Arctostaphylos), wild lilac, sageleaf rockrose (Cistus salviifolius), ice plant, creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis), lantana and mahonia.

Flowering Ground Covers

A flowering, drought-tolerant ground cover is past practical — it also adds pizzazz to your landscape. Lantana and Mexican daisy (Erigeron karvinskianus) are all examples of long-flowering ground covers. Lantana is a shrubby vine, growing 1 to 2 feet high and up to 8 feet, depending on range. Lantana and Mexican daisy grow well in sunny locations in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 through 10. Flower colors for lantana are purple, purple, purple, purple or orange, depending on number. Mexican daisy bears pinkish-white blossoms. Other drought-tolerant, long-flowering ground covers are cape bud (Arctotheca calendula) and Scaevola “Mauve Clusters.”

Evergreen Ground Covers

Low growing junipers, mahonias and germander (Teucrium chamaedrys) are low-maintenance, drought-tolerant ground covers. Juniperus horizontalis grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 10. Mahonias normally have shiny leaves with spiny margins, growing with a neat habit in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Germander is an evergreen, shrubby plant that produces a dark green carpet. It grows well in USDA hardiness zones 6 through 10. Junipers, mahonia and germander grow well in sun or partial shade. Other ground cover plants with botanical leaf include coyote brush, wild lilac, sageleaf rockrose, cotoneaster, Mexican daisy, Aarons’ beard and rosemary (Rosemarinus officinalis).

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How Deep Do You Plant Daffodil Bulbs?

The daffodil (Narcissus spp.) Adapts well to most landscapes and is a spring favorite. Bulb sizes range from small to big, with smaller layers measuring around 1 inch in diameter and an average bulb measuring roughly 2 to 3 inches in diameter. The rule of thumb is to plant them out of one to five times their individual height.

Growing Daffodils

It’s possible to grow daffodils as perennials at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 9. Planting time is generally in the late fall in temperate regions with average low winter temperatures of minus 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a pesticide especially designed for bulbs, and sprinkle it to the planting hole according to the recommended amount on the package label. Plant the bulbs pointed end up and at least three or four times their height.This ensures that the weak part of the plant’s stem is going to be buried deeply enough to hold it erect during its blooming period and beyond. Faded blooms should not be cut until the foliage has yellowed and withered. It’s best to leave the leaf on as long as you can, since it continues to funnel nutrients and energy back into the bulb.

Bulb Maintenance

Once established, daffodil bulbs can remain in the ground for decades, because most species naturalize, that’s the process of forming new bulbs from the soil which produce more flowers each year. This is only one of those secrets behind the broad swaths of daffodils found in ancient to mid-spring in certain areas where hundreds of those glowing yellow trumpets grace a front yard or a hillside. Once the plants are spent, it is possible to dig them up and store them to be planted the next fall, or simply leave them at the ground to naturalize. If the plant clumps become too dense and blooms become smaller annually, wait until the foliage has completely died back to dig and separate the bulbs.

Planting Tips

Daffodil bulbs do best in a sunny area and in wealthy well-drained dirt. Work at lots of organic matter, such as well-rotted compost or aged manure. While compost at any stage may not be damaging, new manure can burn the bulbs before they become established. While the suggested planting depths are flexible, placing them also near the surface of the dirt will give rise to breakage when the stems emerge and flowers develop. Planted too deeply, they all create are long stems and no or few flowers. The Northern California Daffodil Society recommends planting standard-sized lights at mid-November at USDA zones 8 and 9, about 6 inches smaller and deep miniature bulbs about 2 inches deep, spacing conventional bulbs six to eight inches apart and small bulbs four to six inches apart. If planting in clay soil that hasn’t been lightened with organic material, plant the bulbs 1 to 2 inches closer to the surface. The society adds that, in loose dirt, planting depths are not precise, as the bulbs adjust well to minor differences.

Pest Protection

Unlike other spring coats whose preference is attractive to pests, daffodils have a rather bitter taste they tend to avoid. This doesn’t normally stop critters from at least investigating that which you have implanted, and even if a small animal such as a skunk, mole or bush doesn’t eat the bulbs, it will frequently dig them out of curiosity, take a bite, then leave the remainder, typically in addition to the dirt. This can undo the work invested in planting the bulbs and rob you of the pleasure of seeing them open the next spring. Tactics to minimize or prevent this from happening comprise surrounding them at a barrier cage made from wide-mesh wire whereby they can easily grow. Put the cage in the ground so the bulbs rest on the base of the hole at the same recommended depth. Once they’ve sprouted, most pests will leave them alone. Another process is to mulch the newly planted area with a thick, dense layer of leaves or hay to soften any trace of the bulbs’ existence in the ground.


In locations where summers are dry, lights may be left in the ground year-round but should be lifted, or dug up, if you intend on growing other types of plants within that spot. Daffodil bulbs rot in soil that is warm and wet and should be dug up and saved for replanting in the fall. Daffodils requires plenty of water to develop correctly, a requirement that is easily met in rainy areas. Additional watering around 1 inch per week may be necessary in regions of limited rainfall or during dry spells. Mulching the bulbs with organic materials, such as wood shavings, shredded leaves or pine needles, can be beneficial, because these substances also help make the soil more acid, that daffodils prefer.

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How Hard Is It to Change the Roller on a Pella Door?

The rollers to get a Pella sliding door fit within rectangular metallic cartridges, and these cartridges in turn fit into mortises at the bottom of the doorway. When correctly installed and functioning, the grooved roller matches on the knee monitor and glides smoothly, but during age and regular use, the roller might get bent, chipped or otherwise damaged and require replacing. To do it, you have to pull the metallic cartridge out of the doorway, which takes a special corkscrew-style tool. In case you have the instrument, the job is simple, but without it, then some frustration might be involved.

Prepare the sliding half of this doorway for removal. The procedure differs , based on the collection. For doors at the Architect or Designer collection, you have to remove the panel retainer screw at the bottom of the door that holds the door to the track. For doors at the ProLIne series, remove the handle and masonry at the top monitor, with a screwdriver.

Lower the bearings by turning the screws at the bottom corners of the doorway counterclockwise to provide clearances, then lift the doorway and angle the underside away from the framework to eliminate it. Set the door to a pair of sawhorses.

Turn the roller adjustment screws clockwise as far as they will go to exposes the plastic rollers. Unclip each roller in the holder.

Remove the metallic cartridges by inserting the bolt of a corkscrew-style capsule puller through the holes that were holding the roller. Align the puller using the foundation of the door and tighten the screw to extract the capsule.

Extract the cartridges with a vise if you don’t have a puller. Set the door onto a workbench so that the underside is facing the vise and anchor it by screwing a wood brace against the underside.

Feed a length of 14-gauge wire through the holes that held the roller, then wrap the wire around the vise and pull it tight. Open or close the vise — based on the vise’s alignment, to extract the capsule.

Put in a brand new cartridge and roller by inserting the cartridge at the mortise and tapping it in with a hammer.

Lift the bearings by turning the adjustment screws clockwise before you reinstall the doorway.

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How to Make Your Own Dish Soap With Dry Soap Powder

If you wash your dishes regularly from the fridge, the detergent may be a significant cost, and many contain elevated levels of harmful phosphates. By producing your own dishwashing soap, then you’ll have more control over what chemicals you pump in the wastewater system, and you’ll save money as well. Many recipes rely on washing powder, and if you don’t have some of this, you can make it in baking soda.

Get Some Washing Powder

If your supermarket stocks washing powder, you’ll find it in the laundry area. Not all stores stock it however; if you’ve got difficulty finding it, then you will not have trouble locating baking soda, and the two compounds are extremely similar. In actuality, you can convert baking soda into washing powder by baking it at 400 degrees for half an hour. When heated, baking soda breaks into steam, carbon dioxide and washing powder. Expand the baking soda in a thin layer on a cookie pan, and stir it once or twice as it is baking to ensure even heating.

Gather the Ingredients

A basic recipe for a nutty dish detergent involves washing powder, borax along with kosher saltthat is simply coarse salt — not table salt. To produce the mix effective for cleaning streaks and hard water deposits, it’s also advisable to add an acid — citric acid comes in powdered form, and it is safe to use. You may have difficulty discovering citric acid crystals, in which case you can substitute unsweetened lemonade mixture. Once you’ve combined the ingredients to make the powder, you might choose to add some vital oils to provide the soap a pleasant aroma.

Joining the Detergent

To make the dishwashing powder, begin with combining a cup of borax along with a cup of washing powder in a bowl or jar and blend them together throughly. In case you’ve got citric acid crystals, then add two teaspoons to the mix; if you’re using powdered lemonade, then add five bundles. Pour in 1/2 cup of kosher salt and a sprinkle of vital oil — if needed — and blend it thoroughly. Store the dishwashing detergent in a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid; the salt absorbs water and clumps when exposed to the high humidity beneath your sink.

Using the Detergent

You don’t require much detergent to clean an average load of moderately soiled dishes; only place 1 tbsp in your dishwasher’s soap dispenser or add it into a sink-full of warm water. You will receive extra disinfecting power in your fridge if you include an ounce of vinegar to the rinse cycle, which is advisable if hard water deposits are a difficulty. Should you prefer to use vinegar, you can eliminate the citric acid or lemonade crystals in the recipe, because vinegar will do the same job. It does not hurt to mix the cleaning forces of vinegar and citric acid, however.

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How to Put a Belt on a Craftsman FS5500 Riding Lawn Mower

During conventional mowing operations on an established lawn, the deck belt in your own Craftsman FS5500 riding mower usually lasts for two or three mowing seasons. But when mowing through bare locations, friction caused by flying dust, gravel and debris causes abnormal belt wear. Consequently, periodic belt checks are called for — and if it becomes necessary, replacing the belt requires under one hour.

Deck Removal

Park the mower on a firm flat surface. Turn off the engine and remove the ignition key. Set the parking brake, set the clutch lever at the “Disengaged” position and lower the attachment lift lever to its bottom position. Remove the spark plug wire from the spark plug and protected the wire safely away in the plug. Wear a pair of heavy work gloves.

Catch the forward-facing belt tension pole on the upper left of this mower deck. Maintain a firm grip, lever downward and push the end toward the tractor to disengage the spring-loaded rod in the port in the lock bracket. Once free, ease the end gradually upwards to release stress on the mower deck belt.

Go to the right of this mower. Reach underneath and remove the belt in the electrical clutch pulley situated in front of the deck.

Remove the retainer spring and washer by hand in the pin protruding through the hole at the front right suspension arm situated on the upper front of the deck, disengage the link. Repeat by disengaging the ideal rear lift link in the ideal lift arm bracket situated on the upper rear of the deck.

Disconnect the leading link between the deck and the mower chassis by removing the retainer washer and spring from the pin on the chassis and pulling the front of the link in the pin.

Remove the retainer washer and spring from the anti-sway bar connected to the perfect rear lift arm bracket. Pull the deck towards the right until the pub falls in the hole in the bracket.

Go to the other side of the mower and disengage the left front suspension arm and left rear lift arm exactly the same manner.

Turn the tractor steering wheel so that the wheels point all the way towards the left. Slide the mower deck out from below the ideal side of this tractor.

Belt Replacement

Remove the screws securing the two mandrel covers to the left and right of the deck using a Phillips screwdriver. Put the screws within the covers and lay them apart. Take note of this belt configuration and eliminate the old belt in most of drive and idler pulleys.

Remove all dirt and grass clippings from around the pulleys and the upper deck with a stiff-bristle brush.

Install the belt around the three mandrel pulleys with the “V” of this belt facing inward toward the pulley groves. Loop the horizontal side of the belt over both idler pulleys and feed the loose end of the belt forward towards the clutch pulley position.

Reinstall both outer mandrel covers and tighten the screws securely.

Deck Installation

Period the mower deck suspension arms towards the front. Slide the deck below the tractor and middle it front to back and side to side.

Reach under the perfect rear of the mower deck. Lift the anti-sway bar and insert the far end into the hole at the left transmission bracket. Pivot the pub towards the right, move the deck as needed, and insert the other end into the hole at the perfect rear suspension bracket.

Secure the anti-sway pub by replacing the washer and retainer spring removed before onto the end of this anti-sway bar protruding through the ideal suspension bracket.

Reinstall the front right suspension arm by sliding the port on the end over the pin protruding in the table and replacing the washer and retainer spring removed before. Reconnect the leading link and fasten it to the pin on the chassis with the washer and retainer spring removed before.

Go to the other side of the tractor and reinstall the left front suspension arm exactly the same manner.

Attach the perfect rear lift link by lifting the corner of the deck and positioning the port in the end of the link over the pin protruding from the rear lift arm bracket. Secure it with the washer and retainer spring removed before. Repeat and attach the left rear lift link exactly the same manner.

Slide the loose front part of this new belt over the electrical clutch pulley. Check the entire belt for proper alignment and navigation in all the pulley grooves.

Go to the left hand and push the belt tension rod down and then fasten it by hooking it in the slot in the lock bracket.

Lift the deck by raising the attachment lift lever to highest position to finish the installation.

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Growing Roses in Pots

Most varieties of roses (Rosa spp. And cultivars) make very good container plants if you match the size of the rose to your container that accommodates its increase. Roses have deep, fibrous root systems that require a huge pot to yield a healthy plant with rich flowers. Increasing roses present a problem, because the plants get so big — several cultivars growing over 12 feet tall with many divisions — that they’ve corresponding big, very deep root systems. Some rose growers advise against growing climbing roses in containers because they won’t perform well. But there are measures you can take to successfully grow climbing roses.

Cultivar Choice

Climbing roses fluctuate in plant size. Most traditional climbing roses reach 12 to 15 feet tall, and a few grow to 20 feet, such as pink-flowered “Cecile Brunner,” that can be hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11. For containers, opt for smaller varieties of climbing roses. “Social Climber” grows to 6 ft tall in USDA zones 6 through 9, with spicy-smelling flowers in the summer. The salmon-orange, very fragrant flowers of “Westerland” grace 8-feet-tall canes that are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9. Increasing mini roses are acceptable for containers, including “Jeanne Lajoie,” which grows in USDA zones 5 through 8, has pink flowers and grows to around 6 ft tall.

Container Choices

To get non-miniature climbing roses, you’ll eventually require a major container about the size of a 15-gallon pot or a half oak barrel. All containers should have drainage holes in the bottom. Start young scaling roses in 2- to 5-gallon pots, upgrading to bigger sizes by a grass size or two bigger annually as they grow. Miniature roses require at least a 2-gallon container. Choose nonporous containers such as plastic or glazed pots for lower-maintenance plants. Porous clay or wooden pots loose water in the ground more quickly and require extra watering, occasionally daily in summer heat.

Growing Mix

All roses, including climbing roses, enjoy a well-draining mixture that’s high in organic matter. Utilizing ordinary garden soil for container roses may introduce pathogens and typically does not offer the proper drainage. Instead, use a quality commercial potting mix containing perlite for good aeration and drainage, or mix together equal portions of a potting mixture and perlite. This mixture is open and loose, allowing the vigorous roots of climbing roses to readily penetrate and spread throughout the mixture. Use new instead of recycled permeable substances.

Watering Needs

You will need to check climbing roses growing in containers frequently for the moisture content of the dirt. Because they have a small volume of dirt, they require more frequent watering than roses in the ground. Water needs increase once the plant is actively growing and during warm weather. Dive down to the top inch of dirt in the grass. When it’s dry, water the rose until the water comes through the pot’s drainage holes. During winter once the plant is water requires decrease.

Root Pruning

In case you’ve got traditional-size climbing roses, that have fibrous roots and also a taproot, try root pruning to develop wholesome root systems in the containers. Because you repot your roses each year or two, while the roots are exposed, prune off the ends of their taproots as opposed to allowing them to bend or bend against the grass bottom. Use pruners cleaned with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol before root pruning, to avoid spreading infection. This stimulates branching growth of fibrous roots, that do the work of getting nutrients and water for the roses.

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How to Create Conversation Areas in a Great Room

The great room concept finds its origins from the medieval halls of their castles of year — centralized large rooms which doubled as dining areas, celebratory gathering areas, and living and family areas. In such a massive room which brings together over one function from the modern home, conversation regions help define imaginary boundaries to make the entire room more inviting. To make it easy on your own illustrate the room’s floor plan on graph paper and use to-scale furniture cutouts which you are able to move around until you’re happy with the arrangement. Permit form to follow function when designing a conversation area in your room.

More Than 1 Conversation

In a large great room, do not restrict yourself to creating just one dialog area, especially if you entertain a lot. Designate two intimate conversational spaces by placing two black leather sofas back to back with a pastoral ironwood couch table sandwiched between them. Across from every sofa, set two umber club chairs slightly angled toward a pastoral shadowbox coffee table in the center. A white and taupe chevron jute rug ties the area together. When creating each wonderful room dialog area, be sure everyone who sits there can see and interact with the others in the region without twisting or turning.

The Oversized Ottoman

Put a neutral colored oversized ottoman in which a coffee table would ordinarily be, and include seating around its edges to create a conversation area which sparks over one swap between guests. Set a focal point sofa at a bright color at one end of this big square ottoman and additional seating on each side. Two wing-back chairs to the left having a small end table between them and a different couch at a neutral color on the right invites an interesting tete-a-tete in any home. Maintain the space balanced by adding lights and end tables.

A Visual Goal

A warm, inviting area, where people are able to chat and relax, welcomes them to the space whilst visually splitting it from different zones in the excellent room. A textured upholstered sofa in a mild off-white or beige color, with 2 overstuffed deep red-brown leather chairs to one side and a velvet-covered Victorian Sliding to another creates an eclectic mixture. Set this dialog area just before the fireplace, far enough away so guests are not blasted by the heat, however, close enough to make it feel cozy and friendly. Using a focal point allows you to arrange the dialog area in an interesting manner.

The Big Window Seat

A huge window seat begs to get a conversation place arranged about it. Employing the built-in seating, make a self centered space to chat in a room having a view. This works especially well if the window bench adjoins a angled bay window, since this opens up the space and gives it an interesting form. Arrange a few armless overstuffed upholstered chairs across from the window seats, and put a hexagon-shaped coffee table in the middle for anyone seated to set drinks down.

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Side-Table Decorating Ideas

It may be a designer slice or an upturned timeworn wood crate or half barrel, but how you decorate your table is about as important as the table itself. The right table stands around chair-arm height with design that complements the room; the right decorative components on top inform your design narrative.

Size, Style and Symmetry

No matter what you place on a side table, then choose symmetry, appropriate size and suitable fashion. On a set of side tables, then utilize matching table lamps or slightly different lamps with comparable heights, colors and design; vague differences such as diverse shapes create interest. When you are decorating only one table beside a sofa, roughly match the table’s tallest object, including a table lamp together with the table’s height, to the height of the tallest object on the opposite side, such as a floor lamp or leggy, potted plant.

Lighten Up

A table lamp is an end-table regular but its shade may be more important than you realize. If the base of the lampshade is below eye level when you are sitting on the neighboring sofa or chair, you won’t get glare from the arc or see the hardware. For a small table such as a movable era-C table with a wrap-under, extend-over layout — like a rolling hospital-bed table — utilize a slim lamp or clamp lamp for practicality. In case you’ve got a boxier table or table cube, go with a beefier lamp for proportion.

Odds and End Table

A lone lamp may suit a complete table at a minimalist home but if you want a more substantial look, add objects judiciously. Odd-numbered groupings — a lamp, vase and beam candle, like — create visual movement and interest, particularly in the event that you vary their heights. To get a side table, then three objects is plenty. If three doesn’t seem like enough, add two more objects to see how the article changes. Add or take away objects till you’ve got a satisfying display.

Beside the Bed

A bedroom table carries a couple of objects you probably would not use in the living room, den or family room. Include a docking station along with a vintage-looking alarm clock in an antique side table or something with a contemporary twist on a contemporary table. Set a small decorative dish on the table to toss switch, keys, hair accessories, jewelry or other smaller items when you are getting changed or climbing into bed.

Good-Looking Protection

Save your side-table top from drinking-glass condensation, plant or vase spillover or scrapes. Cover the top with a smooth-edge part of glass that’s cut to match; glass includes a clean, streamlined effect if you prefer minimalist design. A single coaster in wood, leather, cork or colorful, molded plastic should match the table it tops. For the nation or Shabby-Chic-style space, hem a floral or paisley table runner to curtain across at a casual angle. In modern digs, utilize ikat fabric or a striped place mat.

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