Category: Home Painting

The way to Convert Chrome to a Brushed Nickel Finish

Painting over chrome, as if it were any other type of metal finish, may seem like a simple project initially. However, paint can peel away or sometimes does not adhere well at all. It is possible to convert a chrome finish to a brushed nickel finish with a level nickel spray paint, but the surface needs proper preparation of the chrome in order to get the paint to stick. Preparing includes cleaning off all of the grime, thoroughly sanding the chrome, and then priming it with a self-etching primer.

Clean the chrome pieces extensively using a household cleaner and soft cloth. Wipe the pieces dry using a soft cloth.

Set a few sheets of paper outdoors on a non-windy day, or on a work surface at a well-ventilated area.

Sand the chrome pieces extensively using medium-grit sandpaper or a sanding block, followed by fine-grit sandpaper. Scuff the end up marginally. This makes it easier for the primer to adhere to the chrome. Wipe off the pieces with paper towels to remove particles.

Cover any regions of the pieces you do not wish to paint with painter’s tape. Set each piece atop the paper.

Shake the primer may as recommended in the manufacturer’s instructions. Prime every cohesive object by holding the primer can 12 to 18 inches away, moving your arm in slow, even lines to pay for the objects extensively. Allow primer to dry completely. Flip the pieces to prime areas you have missed, if needed, allowing this coat to dry as well. Sand the dried primer using fine-grit sandpaper when the instructions recommend it.

Shake the nickel spray paint may vigorously for a minute or 2, or as recommended by the manufacturer. Paint each piece in smooth, even arm movements, holding the can 12 to 18 inches apart in the project as you paint. Allow paint to dry at least 30 minutes or as recommended by the manufacturer, then paint on one or two layers, as desired.

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The way to Stop Carpet Pile By Flattening

Once your carpet pile gets flat, it can take expert help to revive it to its former fresh and fluffy state. Keep your carpets looking fresh by taking a set of steps to maintain your family’s feet and furniture from causing unattractive and possibly permanent flat spots on your carpet. Some wear and tear is regular, and carpet will require routine cleaning. However, you can prevent the worst of all the marks with attention and maintenance.

Keep It Moving

Carpet pile gets flattened when heavy objects sit on it for quite a while, so make it a point to slightly adjust heavy furniture periodically to prevent flat spots. Either move your furniture just a few inches every few weeks, or rearrange your room entirely to keep your carpet from wearing unevenly and causing flat spots. Try to create new walkways between your furniture, as high traffic can cause flattening of larger areas. When you move your furniture, then lift it up entirely off the carpet instead of pulling it to prevent causing additional wear on it that may cause more flattening.

Vacuum and Fluff

While you are rearranging your room or moving your furniture to prevent flat spots, vacuum the region beneath your furniture to maintain the carpet pile fluffed up and looking fresh. Vacuuming not only removes dirt that causes carpet fibers to get matted down, but it also pulls carpet fibers back up through suction to maintain your carpets clean and fresh fluffy. Vacuum high-traffic areas daily if possible to remove dirt and lift carpet fibers back up, as continuous wear and tear from loved ones and guests walking and monitoring dirt on these areas can cause flattening quickly.

Spreading the Weight

Castor cups maintain your furniture from slipping around on hardwood flooring, but they also protect your carpet and help prevent flat spots. Put castor cups above your couch legs to spread the weight of their heavy furniture above a larger carpet area. You’ll still need to rearrange your furniture, but it will take more for a deep indentation than it might with smaller legs pressing harder to your carpet pile. You can also choose furniture with wider bases and wider legs to spread the weight more evenly over the carpet.

Get Steamed Up

If you notice flat spots forming beneath your furniture even though your ancient prevention, then treat them instantaneously to stop them from becoming heavier and more permanent. Put a damp towel above dents and conduct an iron over top to steam the fibers. Use your fingers or a fork to lift the carpet fibers right up again. As an alternative, you can rub an ice cube above the flat spots and then fluff with your fingers. In case you have a larger high-traffic place, then add a runner rug above the region to safeguard the carpet under from prying.

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Painting Over Tongue & Groove Paneling

Tongue-and-groove paneling consists of sections of timber held together by a locking mechanism. Paneled walls add visual interest, but they could also cause a room to appear dated. A coat of paint on your paneling can quickly brighten the space and give it a more contemporary feel. Painting above tongue-and-groove paneling isn’t difficult, but it takes a few more steps than you’d typically use when painting over a level surface like drywall.

Preparation

Tongue-and-groove paneling typically has a finish coat of paint or sealer that protects the timber. This has to be roughed up with fine-grit sandpaper so that paint will adhere properly. When sanding the walls, then be certain you sand the surface of the timber completely. Wash your paneling using a damp cloth to remove sanding dust and other dirt. Gouges, holes and other flaws in the paneling may be filled with wood-filler and sanded smooth before priming and painting, however, the grooves of the tongue-and-groove paneling do not require filling. Wood shrinks and expands the varying humidity levels each season. Should you fill the flux with caulk or wood filler, the patches will crack and fall out, leaving an unsightly mess that will be hard to repair.

Technique

Painting tongue-and-groove paneling is more challenging than conventional drywall or plaster because where each bit of timber joins there are grooves that collect excess paint from the brush. When priming and painting the paneling, remove the excess paint that accumulates in the grooves of this timber with your paintbrush as you cut in along the edges of the room. When you’ve finished cutting in, start at the top of the wall and paint the flux. Load your brush gently and prevent drips by passing the tip of the brush above the flux, feathering the paint as you go. Follow by rolling the primer and paint on the wall in 3-foot sections, starting at the very top of one corner and working your way across the room. As you complete each 3-foot part, pause to feather any extra paint out of the grooves along with your own brush. Paint each part in columns, from ceiling to floor and bend each move marginally for a uniform finish.

Primer

Oil-based or pigmented shellac primers are excellent stain blockers and will block the resins in the wood that might bleed through a latex product. These primers will also adhere to surfaces that aren’t perfectly clean. Should you prefer to use a latex product, then pick a stain-blocking urethane-modified acrylic, which is a good stain-blocking primer that will block resins. The paneling, however, must be entirely clean before painting to ensure proper adhesion.

Paint

After the primer is dry, paint the walls with a standard 1/2-inch nap roller. A thick roller is not necessary as you’ll have painted the flux when cutting in. The excess paint a thicker remainder holds doesn’t remove the requirement to fill in the flux first. It will only gather in the grooves and cause runs and drips. Use either latex or oil-based goods, but pick a finish that suits the space. As an instance, tongue-and-groove paneling in a kitchen will need washing, so a flat paint isn’t perfect. A semigloss, however, may highlight blemishes from the wood. A satin finish provides a happy medium between a semigloss and a level finish. Apply at least 2 coats of paint for a uniform finish.

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Can I Repaint Exterior Wood Siding on a Home?

Wood siding is. It is a breathable covering that was the most popular siding there has been. Today, wood siding is often called clapboards, and the timber is valuable. It needs to be cared for, and often repainting is the easiest solution. Look after your wood siding and it will last beyond your life.

Scrape any loose paint from the siding. Make certain to wear a dust mask to keep out of breath the paint dust. Scrub the siding well to make certain that there are no paint chips staying.

Spray a solution. Bleach water to 2 gallons water. This will kill any mold growing in damp places on the siding. Let it dry and vanish, bleaching out the timber.

Prime the wood siding using a wood primer. This is painted on using a paint brush. Sometimes it’s a base colour inside to make it a lot easier to cover over the old colour and the prepare to the new colour. Allow it to dry so long as the manufacturer’s instructions call for on the packaging to the primer.

Paint the siding with the desirable color working from the top down. Clean up any paint drips as quickly as possible. Paint from side to side to remain in the direction of the wood grain.

Touch up all of the edges with all the paint to give it a clean and finished surface. Fill in any gaps with a wood-epoxy putty that is two-part paint on them.

Paint two coats to provide a surface that is solid-colored to the timber.

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