Category: Saving Water

The Oil Ratio for a Stihl Leaf Blower

Without proper maintenance, a leaf blower may malfunction or cause personal injury. One of the simplest methods to maintain a Stihl leaf blower blowing in its best is to fill it with the suggested mixture of oil to gasoline. Stihl’s user guides recommend certain measures for refueling, both to its ratio, and for the types of gas and oil to be mixed.

Gas Mix

According to Stihl, oil and gas for leaf blowers must be mixed in a ratio of 50 components gas to 1 part oil. This amounts to about 2.6 oz of oil to each gallon of gasoline.

Air Cooled Oil

Stihl creates its own brand of motor oil specifically for use in its own two-stroke machines, such as their leaf blowers. If Stihl oil isn’t available, look for top quality two-stroke lookup engine oil. Do not make the mistake of mixing water-cooled or even mix-engine oils, as they’re intended for use in other vehicles, such as mopeds and snowmobiles.

Gas Grade

Simply use unleaded gasoline in Stihl blowers. Additives can harm the motor in the long term, so Stihl proposes using only gas which has an octane rating of 89 or higher. In the event the mid-grade gasoline in your area is of lower octane than 89, use premium gasoline.

Like a Polaroid Picture

The same as oil and water, oil and gas don’t mix naturally and so are quick to separate. Be sure to pre-mix oil and gas into a fresh, fuel-approved container. For the best results, mix only tiny amounts of fuel which are sufficient for many days use and never mix a bigger amount than what you’d use in 3 months. Store any extra fuel mix in a gas-approved container. Stihl recommends pouring the oil into the container first and then including the gasoline. Before applying, thoroughly blend the gasoline and oil mixture by shaking the container. Steer clear of moisture getting into the mixture by keeping the container lid tightly shut.

Security Dance

Always practice caution with your Stihl leaf blower, refueling only when the motor is off and in a well-ventilated area outdoors. To decrease the probability of injury from burns off, unscrew the cap slowly to release built-up pressure in the gas tank. Verify the gas cap is tightened properly after fueling, and walk at least 10 feet from the area where you refueled before starting the motor.

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The Proportion of Fuel Stabilizer to Gasoline in a Lawn Mower

You wish to keep gas stored inside a container for more than 30 days or whether you are keeping your lawn mower for the winter, adding fuel stabilizer is necessary. Mix the right quantity of fuel stabilizer to gas, and the fuel system of your mower should be protected from pitting and gumming up. Plus, your mower will start easily once you take it from storage spring.

Mix According to Stabilizer Brand

Fuel stabilizer to gasoline’s ratio varies by manufacturer. To find the mixing ratio refer to the fuel stabilizer tag. Some manufacturers recommend adding 1 oz of fuel stabilizer to 1 gallon of fresh gasoline, but others recommend adding 1 oz of stabilizer to 2.5 gallons of fresh gas. The key point to notice is that the ratios are determined by the brand of fuel stabilizer not the manufacturer of lawn mower or if the mower is walk-behind model or a riding.

Stabilize All Fuel Types

Whether the engine of a mower calls for gasoline or a mixture of gas and two-cycle petroleum, fuel stabilizer could be inserted to protect against moisture in the tank. The ratios for combinations are usually the same as those added to straight gas, but check the label of the fuel stabilizer to ensure you include the appropriate quantity. If you are using petrol blended with ethanol, fuel stabilizer could be added to lengthen its life too, but it has to be a brand that is made for gas-ethanol mixtures.

Use With Brand New Gas

When it comes to maintaining your motor starting 24, mixing the suggested ratio of fuel stabilizer is only part of the equation. It has to be blended at the time it is purchased, rather with gasoline. Adding it to rancid gas more than 30 days old will not”re-freshen” the gasoline. To get the advantages of fuel stabilizer, then fill out your mower’s gas tank then run the motor five to 10 minutes to circulate it through the fuel system. This places it where is it required so it can protect your engine’s carburetor.

Pour or Filter

Utilize fuel stabilizer on the gas tank of your mower when keeping it for 30 days or longer. Or, in case you have you can extend the life of gas with the addition of fuel stabilizer to it stored in a container. If you don’t wish to quantify liquid fuel stabilizer some producers make a cartridge full of fuel stabilizer. Use it by snapping it in your lawn mower’s gas cap. It drip fuel stabilizer in the fuel of your mower.

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Is Running Cental Air Cheaper Than Running Three Wall Air Conditioners?

Air conditioning makes the most popular summer days more satisfying, but rising energy prices and the growing awareness of energy conservation and resource depletion requires you cool your house as cheaply and energy efficiently as possible. Deciding which cooling system will save you the most — three window air conditioners or a central air unit — depends on a few factors. Cooling your home with the proper system saves you money and power, and keeps you completely comfortable regardless of the temperature outside.

Comparing Energy Usage

Considering that the average house uses more power for heat than for any other appliance or accessory, if you want to save money on your utility bill, carefully consider your cooling options. A central air unit consumes more energy to cool your property. As Mr. Electricity says, a window unit consumes anywhere from 500 to 1440 watts to run, while a 2.5 ton central unit (about the size for a typical 1,500- to 2,000-square-foot house) uses roughly 3,500 watts. It’s not simply about the magnitude of place cooled, but the fact that central air requires the furnace, also. The air doesn’t flow to the rest of the home with no furnace blower — so more running parts equal a larger power draw.

Price of Unit Installation

It’s simple to see a central unit consumes more electricity than a window unit, but there’s more to your cost than only the power draw. As soon as you factor in the price and cost of installation, your cost per use may rise substantially. Dividing the whole cost and installation labor cost by the weeks you use it dramatically illustrates the true cost of only using the air conditioner, without figuring in the utility bill. Window units sell for a good deal less than central units, and also the installation generally is do-it-yourself.

It’s Not All About the Unit

Another factor when determining that heat unit is best for your circumstances is the state of your existing HVAC system. No matter how efficient your central air unit, even if the ducts that the cool air moves through are filled with holes, or poorly insulated and exposed to temperature extremes, the efficacy of the entire system goes down — and the cost goes up. If you decide to run a central air unit, insulating your ducts, and inspecting and maintaining the entire system is important, even though it adds to the cost. Compared with window units, which blow right into the room and need little but occasional cleaning unless they move out, a central unit again costs more.


Although it costs more to purchase and install a central unit — and responsible owners also spend more on annual service calls for maintenance and inspection — if you intend to trendy three or more rooms, the cheapest and energy-efficient alternative is your central unit. A central unit has higher resale value, which means you recoup more of the investment if you sell your property. The weightiest factor, however, is that three window units typically use more electricity than a single central unit. Also look at that three rooms likely is a large part of the house, and each time you travel between heat zones using a window unit, you are leaking cool air, making your unit work harder. But neither unit will get the job done efficiently and save money unless it’s correctly sized. Always research your choices before purchasing.

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How to select the Size of Central Air

Back in the days of cheap electricity, correctly sizing residential central air conditioners wasn’t a high priority. Builders simply covered for any shortfalls by installing an AC unit significantly larger than needed. Now, homeowners can not manage to operate an over-sized air conditioner with half of the BTU tonnage than their home actually demands. On the flip side, nobody needs a unit that is too little, either. Sizing involves ascertaining the property’s heat load: The exact capacity in BTUs per hour and also cubic feet per minute of airflow to keep a 78 degree temperature from the home. Several methods are available — in the most exact to a general rule-of-thumb quote — to dimension the right central air conditioner for your needs.

Manual J Calculation

Developed by the Air Conditioning Contractors of America and integrated into applications used by HVAC contractors, Manual J is the gold standard for correctly ascertaining the heat load on your house. The program utilizes information about your climate and the size of your house, together with room-by-room data about the size and type of windows, the more air-tightness of the house, quantity and quality of insulation, the amount of residents and the varieties of appliances and lighting. The software generates BTU tonnage and airflow figures that permit you to correctly match an air conditioner to the particular requirements of the house.

Online Sizing Estimators

Available at many HVAC contractor and air conditioner sales sites, online calculators permit you to input a limited number of data about the size and setup of your house as well as its own Department of Energy climate. The calculator yields a rough estimate in BTUs and airflow to your ac unit that most closely fits your home’s cooling load. Since the precision of sizing calculations decreases as data is reduced, online sizing estimators are not as exact as a home visit by an HVAC contractor with Manual J software.

Compare and Contrast

Nearby homes in the exact same area or house development are often of equal size with similar floor plans. If a neighbor in a residence similar to yours has an air conditioner that produces adequate comfort and acceptable efficiency, request info about his AC unit including the serial and model number. This may give you an overall idea of what is needed to create similar benefits in your home.

Look at Your Existing Unit

If you’re replacing the air conditioner installed on your house due to malfunction, but it produced otherwise acceptable benefits in comfort and efficiency for your family, locate the manufacturer’s model and serial number plate, typically situated on the exterior condenser unit. Access the manufacturer’s customer support online or by phone to get sizing data concerning this unit, like its BTU capacity and airflow. With this information, you’ve got a starting point to make informed sizing decisions about upgrading to a new unit of greater or lesser ability.

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