Category: Home Cleaning

After stripping the old finish off wood furniture you will see a discoloration which remains on it. This is brought on by old wood stain that’s deep inside the grain where the stripping agent was unable to penetrate. Even sanding doesn’t always get rid of this discoloration, since the grooves are occasionally very deep. To remove the discoloration, then bleach the wood using a strong substance that seeps into the grain and also eliminates the color.

Transfer the furniture piece to an outdoor place and set it on top of a plastic sheeting. Don’t put it onto a surface which may be damaged by the whitening liquid.

Wear protective clothing, rubber gloves and safety glasses since the bleaching agent is a mild acid which can injure you.

Fill out a large plastic bucket with 1 gallon of warm water and then add 11 to 16 oz. Of oxalic acid crystals, which are available at home improvement stores. Stir the mixture with a paint stirrer or a different nonmetal object until the crystals dissolve.

Insert a paintbrush into the mix and then paint the whitening agent on the furniture until it’s saturated. It’s nice if the alternative pops in addition to the furniture.

Enable the acid solution to sit for approximately 15 minutes, checking the wood periodically to determine if the appropriate bleaching level has been achieved.

Fill out a clean bucket with 1 gallon of warm water and 3 ounces. Of powdered borax. Mix the solution well and pour it over all surfaces of the furniture to neutralize the acidity.

Rinse the wood thoroughly using a garden hose to eliminate all traces of the acid mix. Blot up most of the moisture with a towel and put the furniture in the sun to finish drying. After the wood has dried completely, smooth the surfaces using a palm sander and fine-grit sandpaper in accordance with your tastes. Use a rotary instrument with sanding fittings for detailed areas or interior corners and edges.

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Cabinets — whether they are metal, laminate, wood or glass — are subject to dirt and buildup, and the consequences of warmth and temperature changes. Kitchen cabinets, in particular, are vulnerable to cooking exhaust and buildup of oil and should be regularly cleaned and polished to restore surface and shine quality. For some substances, buffing it and cleaning the surface is an polishing method that is effective, some should be cleaned regularly and polished annually or so to handle residual damage while.

Cleaning Wood

Wood cabinets come in a variety of finishes and veneers. For the most part, you can clean wood that is finished and painted with mild detergent and a soft cloth. Dust the cabinet surfaces first, then dampen the cloth using a solution of 1 part gentle detergent to 3 parts water. Clean along the grain of the wood; wash with another soft cloth, dampened with water. Take care to not get the wood which can result in water damage and splintering.

Polishing and Waxing Wood

You might find that certain areas look dull or have lost the sheen of the veneer after cleaning wood. Other areas might be chipped or scraped. In cases like this, you can use paste wax or wood polish restore shine and to cover almost any surface inconsistencies. After eliminating any wax buildup use wax with a fabric across the grain of the wood. Buff with a clean, dry cloth when finished.

Metal Cabinets

Fixtures and cabinets made from metals like aluminum and stainless steel have been used in several kitchens. They often have an enamel finish, which makes them simple to polish. Use a soft cloth to wipe out residue and restore glow, followed to buff the surface. If dullness or lasting stains exist, fill a spray bottle with one part vinegar and two parts water, use to the surface, and wash for an sound and easy cleanse and polish. You can use a metal cleaner if the cabinets require a more powerful treatment.

Laminate Cabinets

Laminate cabinets using a cloth dipped in a solution of 3 parts water and wash. If the cabinet surfaces nevertheless show stains and dull spots, they are sometimes spot-treated and glistening. Water to 1 part vinegar and polish; wash with water and buff with a clean cloth. Stains by tinkering using a paste made from baking soda and water, and rinsing with water. Buff with a dry cloth.

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Pillowcases guard your cushions from getting stained, but even so, it’s a struggle to keep pillow fabric from turning yellowish. Pillows usually turn yellow due to an accumulation of perspiration. Sweat yellows since it dries, so over time, your cushions start to appear old and depressed. A yellowed pillow isn’t doomed, though. You can whiten most types of cushions in the washing machine with a few bleaching agents. Memory-foam pillows can’t withstand a battering from the washing machine, so you ought to undertake them by hand.

Machine-Washable Pillows

Eliminate the pillowcase and scoop in the pillow, if applicable.

Fill your washing machine about one-third of the way filled with hot water.

Add 1 cup of powdered laundry detergent, 1/2 cup of borax, and 1 cup of chlorine or hydrogen peroxide.

Start the washing machine and let it run for many minutes, then add the pillows. For best results, wash two cushions simultaneously so the device stays balanced during the spin cycle.

Fill out the machine the remainder of the manner with hot water. Let it run for many minutes again.

Turn the cushions over so the other hand gets cleaned. Allow the machine run for a few more minutes, then put it into the rinse cycle.

Set the pillows in the dryer when the washing machine is done. Add a couple of tidy tennis balls — they will fluff the pillows as they dry. If your tennis balls are not clean, wrap socks around them before placing them in the drier.

Place the drier to the low-heat placing for synthetic pillows. Use the air-cycle placing for feather or down pillows.

Pillows That Aren’t Machine Washable

Take off the pillowcase and scoop, if necessary. Put the pillow down on a table or another flat surface.

Fill a dish with cold water, and add a few drops of soap. Dampen a cloth with the soapy water. Wring out the excess water.

Dab the pillow gently with the cloth. If you’re cleaning a stain, start dabbing from the outside of the stain and move inward to the middle.

Fill a spray bottle with white vinegar or enzymatic cleaner. Mist the pillow lightly, and let it set for five minutes. Blot dry with a towel. This works especially well to eliminate pet urine stains and odor.

Put the Cushion out in the sun to dry. Instead, set it in the dryer for 20 minutes on the air or no-heat cycle.

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In the beverage world, tea is a versatile libation. It is served hot, and it’s served chilled. You can even mix it with lemonade to make a refreshing Arnold Palmer or add a dash of vodka to get a spiked treat. However, what you may not know is that tea has a number of beneficial effects for your hardwood floors. Black tea is a powerful cleaning agent for hardwood floors.

Beneficial Effects

Alongside water and vinegar, a black tea-and-water mix is a powerful home remedy cleansing contender. The acidic level in black tea increases dirt from the ground, but it isn’t quite as harsh as vinegar. The acidic degree of vinegar is about pH-3, which can strip the masonry from stained floors; however, tea, has a gentler acidic price. It removes the dirt without harming the finish of your floors; additionally, the process is economical: It is relatively affordable and probably already on your pantry.

Provides and Time

To use the black tea cleaning method, you require: a broom, dust pan, big pot for boiling water, water, two black tea bags, a spray bottle and soft dish rag. The amount of time the process takes depends greatly on the amount of dirt on your floor as well as the square footage you’re attempting to wash.

The Tea Process

To wash your hardwood floors with tea, pour a gallon of water in a big pot; put the pot on the stove over medium heat. Bring the water to a boil and then put two black tea bags in the water. While the tea is brewing, use a broom to sweep up any pet dander, debris or dust from the ground. It should take about 15 to 20 minutes to steep the tea. Remove the pot from the heat and allow it to cool to room temperature. Pour the tea into a spray bottle, and spray the tea on the surface you’re cleaning. Utilizing a dish rag, vigorously rub the ground in a circular motion until it’s sufficiently clean.

Other Tea Tips

Be careful about the types of flooring where you’re using black tea. Don’t use it on laminate or pergo floors. Utilizing additional tea bags to make your solution will not only brew stronger tea, it also ensures surface scratches are far less visible. The stronger tea also brings out the grain in the wood, gives the floors a nice glow and makes your floors a slightly darker color.

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Rust stains in your sink may be brought on by standing water in which it comes from contact with metal items or by a split in the sink in which water seeps in. These red-orange stains may occur in a stainless steel or porcelain cast-iron sink, but you may use the same cleaning methods on any type of sink. Keep the sink dry if it’s not being used and avoid putting metal objects directly in or on the sink to stop new rust stains.

Dampen the rusty areas of the sink with water.

Sprinkle the rust stains using a light layer of baking soda. Apply several drops of vinegar into the boiling soda. Scrub the stains with a damp cloth or nonabrasive scrubbing sponge to remove the rust.

Wash the sink thoroughly to remove any cleaning residue.

Sprinkle a light layer of oxalic acid-based cleaning powder into some remaining rust stains. Wipe the stains with a damp cloth to remove them.

Wash the sink with water and dry it with a towel.

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Fiberglass tubs and shower stalls are created from a gel with tiny interwoven strings of glass that are molded right into a tough surface. This material is used in residential bathrooms as an attractive and economical alternative to conventional porcelain bathtubs and ceramic tile shower stalls. You can keep your fiberglass tubs and shower stalls in optimal shape by following a couple of maintenance tips.

Utilize Non-Abrasive Cleaners

Fiberglass isn’t quite as hard as porcelain or ceramic tile, therefore care has to be taken to prevent scratching the surface. Select non-abrasive cleaners such as dishwashing or liquid laundry detergents or an all-purpose household or toilet cleaner that’s made especially for cleaning fiberglass. Apply the product with a soft sponge or a non-abrasive brush or applicator made of nylon, polyester or polyethylene. Abrasive cleaners, scrubbers and sponges will degrade fiberglass and lead to staining and discoloration.

Remove Soap Scum and Stains

For hard water stains, soap scum and iron deposits, then use a mineral deposits removal merchandise such as Lime-A-Way, CLR or Zud. For places with black grime or algae, then use a combination of equal parts of household bleach and water. Saturate the stained areas and permit the cleanser to sit down for a hour or so before thoroughly rinsing the unit with cold water. Avoid the temptation to use scouring powders, pads or steel wool; instead, use a non-abrasive sponge or microfiber cloth to gently rub stubborn stains.

Strive Herbal Alternatives

Baking soda, hydrogen peroxide and vinegar may be used in place of chemical products. Combine 1 part hydrogen peroxide with 2 parts baking soda to produce a paste. Apply the glue with a sponge or a rubber brush and then leave it around for at least a half-hour to remove stains. For soap scum removal, mix white vinegar with equal parts of warm water and apply with a spray bottle or a sponge. Leave it on for 15 minutes and wipe away with a dry sponge or cloth.

State the Surface

Some fiberglass bathtub and shower manufacturers recommend conditioning the surface twice a year using a automotive polishing compound or cream wax. To buff a scratched or dulled surface and then restore a lustrous shine to a bathtub or shower stall, then apply a light coat of polish or wax with a clean cotton cloth and gently rub into the surface. Avoid treating the underside or bottom of this unit to prevent slips and falls. Check your manufacturer’s care guide before using wax products in your own unit.

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Mold occurs on fabric, such as upholstered furniture, that is kept always in dank. It may also happen while they’re damp, if areas like sofa cushions, of the furniture, are stored in vinyl : Plastic does not allow material to breathe or atmosphere out. Eliminating the mold requires moisture that contributes to the problem and steps to remove the mold. The further airing out done after removing the mold, the less the carpeting will smell rancid after cleaning.

Take the furniture outdoors on a dry, non-humid day. Choose the cushions, pillows or some other removable components outside, if you’re not able to carry the entire article of furniture outdoors. Upholstery outdoors helps keep the mold.

Brush off all visible mold or discolored specks on the upholstery using a sterile wash brush or broom. While wearing a dust mask to prevent breathing in mold spores give a good brushing to the entire fabric. If cleaning indoors, place atop newspaper to capture any residue. Discard the newspaper carefully after.

Vacuum the furniture completely using an upholstery brush attachment. Permit the furniture to sit for several hours or even daily, if at all possible, to air out. Airing it out helps remove any moisture trapped to help avoid mold.

Mix equal parts water and rubbing alcohol in a bucket. Dip a sponge into the liquid and wash any stains that remain after vacuuming and brushing. First test the solution on an inconspicuous area to make sure it doesn’t discolor the fabric.

Spritz the furniture with white vinegar using a spray bottle with a fine-mist setting. Permit the furniture while still outdoors or in a well-ventilated, dry room with lots of daylight.

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Spaghetti sauce served with a pasta dinner sometimes splatters its strategy to places it does not belong, like table linens. If undetected, then that sauce turns into a stain that may be hard to eliminate. Pretreat the saucy spots as soon as possible using liquid dish or laundry soap, water and vinegar to send them into oblivion. Then launder the blankets as ordinary.

Brand Areas

Take good care of new spills, for example, if a sauce-laden spoon falls upon the tablecloth, by instantly scooping up as much of the sauce as possible. Use a clean spoon, working from the outside of the spill toward the center to prevent spreading it. Once you’ve lifted the majority of the sauce off, blot the area gently with a damp cloth. Do not rub the place, or it may spread and become even larger.

Rinse It Away

Water helps eliminate a few of the spaghetti sauce residue. Pick out the tablecloth or cloth napkin to a sink or washtub. Run cool water over the rear or clean side of the cloth, so the tomato-based residue rinses away from the cloth, instead of becoming embedded inside it. Do not rub the cloth, because this may spread the stain.

Homemade Spot Remover

Create a homemade sauce-stain remover by mixing 3 parts water and vinegar with 1 part liquid dish soap or non-bleach liquid laundry soap. Pour the solution directly over small spots, or rub on the linen in the liquid if the stain is big. Leave the option on the linen for 10 to 15 minutes, and then rinse it in cool water. If the stain remains, pour a little liquid dish or laundry soap directly onto the stain and blot it gently with a sponge or dishcloth without massaging it. After a couple of minutes, rinse the soap off in water, and then blot white vinegar directly onto the place, rinsing it away after 5 to 10 minutes. If the stain is shouted but isn’t gone yet, duplicate the alternating soap and vinegar therapies.

Launder as Usual

Once you’ve treated the table linens with a homemade stain remover, clean them in the washing machine after instructions on the care tags. Use your favourite detergent together with 1/2 cup of bleach if the blankets are white, or even a color-safe bleach if not. Inspect the blankets carefully prior to placing them in the dryer, since heat will place the stains. Run the linens through the wash once again if sauce stains remain.

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