Can You Plant a Garden Right After Placing Down Preen?

Gardens provide a bounty of benefits to the homeowner including a crop of fresh vegetables, a pastime or a decorative mattress in the landscape. However, their many advantages aren’t reaped without suffering a few issues along the way. Weeds are among the most common problems in gardening; luckily, several powerful products help control pesky invaders. Preen is an effective product, but you normally can not sow seeds or plant young seedlings directly after program.

Around Preen

Preen is a weed-preventing item, meaning it does not kill weeds but rather prevents them from growing. Preen Garden Weed Preventer comprises 1.47 per cent trifluralin; Preen Vegetable Garden Organic Weed Preventer comprises 100 percent corn gluten meal. These components prevent weeds from germinating, effectively preventing them from sprouting and becoming nuisances. However, their pre-emergent attributes are also powerful on the seeds of several vegetables and other garden crops.

Preen Garden Weed Preventer

The first Preen Garden Weed Preventer is famous to be used around several species of flowers, trees, shrubs and vegetables that are certain. For most flowering plants, you ought to wait 12 weeks prior to sowing seeds or transplanting. However, you may plant broccoli, cauliflower and related crops (Brassica oleracea), carrots (Daucus carota), radishes (Raphanus sativus), peas (Pisum sativum) and celery (Apium graveolens) after employing Preen. To get cantaloupes (Cucumis melo cantalupensis), cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) and watermelons (Citrullus lanatus), you need to wait 12 weeks after Preen program or apply Preen after the seedlings have five or more leaves.

Preen Vegetable Garden Organic Weed Preventer

If you decide to use the organic corn gluten meal Preen, you must wait six months after use before sowing seeds or planting young transplants. If you can wait to use Preen Vegetable Garden Organic Weed Preventer, you can put on the item around seedlings and transplant which have established their own root systems and are at least 2 to 3 inches tall.

General Application

When utilizing first Preen Garden Weed Preventer in vegetable gardens, the program rates fluctuate based on the kind of soil. Sprinkle in a rate of 1 pound per 640 square feet in case you’ve got heavy clay soil, 1 pound per 960 square feet when your soil is loamy, and 1 pound per 1,280 square feet when your soil is submerged. Apply evenly, then blend the item into the top 1 or 2 inches of dirt. Water immediately after mixing into the soil. For Organic Weed Preventer, use at a rate of 5 pounds per 250 square feet, mix into the top 1 or 2 inches of dirt, and water instantly.

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The Oil Ratio for a Stihl Leaf Blower

Without proper maintenance, a leaf blower may malfunction or cause personal injury. One of the simplest methods to maintain a Stihl leaf blower blowing in its best is to fill it with the suggested mixture of oil to gasoline. Stihl’s user guides recommend certain measures for refueling, both to its ratio, and for the types of gas and oil to be mixed.

Gas Mix

According to Stihl, oil and gas for leaf blowers must be mixed in a ratio of 50 components gas to 1 part oil. This amounts to about 2.6 oz of oil to each gallon of gasoline.

Air Cooled Oil

Stihl creates its own brand of motor oil specifically for use in its own two-stroke machines, such as their leaf blowers. If Stihl oil isn’t available, look for top quality two-stroke lookup engine oil. Do not make the mistake of mixing water-cooled or even mix-engine oils, as they’re intended for use in other vehicles, such as mopeds and snowmobiles.

Gas Grade

Simply use unleaded gasoline in Stihl blowers. Additives can harm the motor in the long term, so Stihl proposes using only gas which has an octane rating of 89 or higher. In the event the mid-grade gasoline in your area is of lower octane than 89, use premium gasoline.

Like a Polaroid Picture

The same as oil and water, oil and gas don’t mix naturally and so are quick to separate. Be sure to pre-mix oil and gas into a fresh, fuel-approved container. For the best results, mix only tiny amounts of fuel which are sufficient for many days use and never mix a bigger amount than what you’d use in 3 months. Store any extra fuel mix in a gas-approved container. Stihl recommends pouring the oil into the container first and then including the gasoline. Before applying, thoroughly blend the gasoline and oil mixture by shaking the container. Steer clear of moisture getting into the mixture by keeping the container lid tightly shut.

Security Dance

Always practice caution with your Stihl leaf blower, refueling only when the motor is off and in a well-ventilated area outdoors. To decrease the probability of injury from burns off, unscrew the cap slowly to release built-up pressure in the gas tank. Verify the gas cap is tightened properly after fueling, and walk at least 10 feet from the area where you refueled before starting the motor.

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How to Restore the Antique Finish on Door Locks

Antique door locks make a considerable contribution to home styling. Years of corrosion and a number of layers of paint, however, can make them stick out like a sore thumb. Whether your locks are showy or plain, restoring their finish is a weekend job which uses materials you probably already have at hand. Once restored, your doorway locks will add trendy detail to your home.


Occasionally all of your door locks require is a fantastic cleaning to remove dirt that masks the pretty finish beneath. This is especially true of brass hardware which has a pleasing, aged patina. Remove dirt with a general household cleaner and a soft cloth. Use a toothbrush to remove hard-to-get-at dirt grooves and recesses. Clean nicely painted door locks in great condition exactly the same manner.

Removing Old Finishes

There are times once the paint or lacquer must go. To get a thorough, gentle removal, remove hardware in the doorway and put it in a slow cooker. Fill with water and add enough liquid dish washing soap to generate the water shiny. Cover, then turn the stove on low and let sit around eight hours or overnight. Remove the softened paint or lacquer with toothbrushes, wooden toothpicks, plastic scrapers and other stuff that won’t scratch the finish. Re-soak pieces which have stubborn paint.


Frequently, taking away the paint leaves a pleasing, mellow patina on brass and nickle-plated locks. If you want to polish, however, rub a soft cloth dipped in brass polish to shine it. Use a circular movement. You’ll see that the high spots become glowing and the recesses remain a tiny brownish. Catch it this way if you prefer it. Otherwise, keep polishing, using a toothbrush at recesses until you achieve the shine you desire. A bit of baking soda helps rub dark pitting. Start looking for a brass cleaner which leaves a waxy finish that prevents tarnish or rub a small paste wax onto your polished item and buff to a shine.


If steel or iron locks are hardened, rub them with fine (0000) steel wool and family oil. Clean away the oil with soap and water, then dry the lock thoroughly and prime with metal primer. Spray or brush on a durable enamel top coat and let dry. Spray a tiny household oil to the lock’s openings to soften the workings. Oil brass locks, too, before reinstallation.

Creating a New Antique Finish

Pour 1/2-inch clear household ammonia in a plastic or glass dish. Then, add a piece of plastic which can serve as a shelf, such as the bottom inch of a margarine tub. Put your washed brass lock on the shelf, then cover the dish tightly with plastic wrap and wait. Check every hour or so and eliminate the hardware once you find the colour you desire. Use fine steel wool or brass polish to clean and polish the brass to your pleasing color. Work Outdoors or in a ventilated area.

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How to Use Tea to Clean Hardwood Floors

In the beverage world, tea is a versatile libation. It is served hot, and it’s served chilled. You can even mix it with lemonade to make a refreshing Arnold Palmer or add a dash of vodka to get a spiked treat. However, what you may not know is that tea has a number of beneficial effects for your hardwood floors. Black tea is a powerful cleaning agent for hardwood floors.

Beneficial Effects

Alongside water and vinegar, a black tea-and-water mix is a powerful home remedy cleansing contender. The acidic level in black tea increases dirt from the ground, but it isn’t quite as harsh as vinegar. The acidic degree of vinegar is about pH-3, which can strip the masonry from stained floors; however, tea, has a gentler acidic price. It removes the dirt without harming the finish of your floors; additionally, the process is economical: It is relatively affordable and probably already on your pantry.

Provides and Time

To use the black tea cleaning method, you require: a broom, dust pan, big pot for boiling water, water, two black tea bags, a spray bottle and soft dish rag. The amount of time the process takes depends greatly on the amount of dirt on your floor as well as the square footage you’re attempting to wash.

The Tea Process

To wash your hardwood floors with tea, pour a gallon of water in a big pot; put the pot on the stove over medium heat. Bring the water to a boil and then put two black tea bags in the water. While the tea is brewing, use a broom to sweep up any pet dander, debris or dust from the ground. It should take about 15 to 20 minutes to steep the tea. Remove the pot from the heat and allow it to cool to room temperature. Pour the tea into a spray bottle, and spray the tea on the surface you’re cleaning. Utilizing a dish rag, vigorously rub the ground in a circular motion until it’s sufficiently clean.

Other Tea Tips

Be careful about the types of flooring where you’re using black tea. Don’t use it on laminate or pergo floors. Utilizing additional tea bags to make your solution will not only brew stronger tea, it also ensures surface scratches are far less visible. The stronger tea also brings out the grain in the wood, gives the floors a nice glow and makes your floors a slightly darker color.

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How to Establish a Verdigris Finish on Terra-cotta Pots

Verdigris is a painting technique which ends in a vintage look of green patina on copper, bronze or copper. The natural patina types from oxidization when the metals are exposed to air and other exterior components as time passes, but you can create the antique finish in a matter of hours.

Cover the work surface with newspaper to protect the surface in paint. Place the terra-cotta pot on the table and then wipe it down with a moist cloth to remove any dirt or debris.

Ventilate the area. Paint the exterior of the pot with black acrylic paint to create a base coat to the verdigris finish. Permit the paint to completely dry.

Cover the pot with bronze or copper acrylic paint. Allow the paint to dry. Use a thick craft paintbrush to dab dark-green paint over the pot to create a stippled effect for texture. Dab a clean cloth over the surface to further enhance the stippled look. Allow the green paint dry thoroughly.

Paint the pot with light-blue or turquoise acrylic paint using random brushstrokes to craft a realistic appearance. Dab at the most recent layer of paint with another clean cloth to reveal some of the bronze or copper colour underneath.

Slim white acrylic paint having 30-percent water to create a slightly transparent look. Brush the white paint on the pot in random strokes and let it dry completely. Rub a tidy kitchen scrub pad gently over the white paint to reveal a number of the other colors below to get a multidimensional look.

Employ a transparent acrylic sealer spray over the dry paint to guard the verdigris finish in the elements.

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Could it be Okay to Debate Over Drywall That Is Lost the Paper?

Bad things may happen to great drywall. Especially when upgrading walls by removing old wallpaper or paneling, drywall surface paper might be ripped or remove pieces using all the old wall finishes. The surface paper is a vital part of drywall, protecting the gypsum from moisture. As you don’t have to replace the drywall, you do have to seal it as part of the process of texturing over drywall with damaged paper.

Cut away the ragged edges of any torn or missing drywall surface paper using a razor knife. Cut the rest paper into right sides, creating a square or rectangular-shaped section.

Seal the missing-paper places with an oil-based sealer or shellac. Apply the sealer over the trimmed edges, sealing existing paper borders adjoining the torn place. Allow to dry completely.

Skim-coat the affected region with joint compound and a trowel. Spread the compound thinly (no longer than 1/32 inch). Apply a second coat as required to make the missing-paper area mix with the surrounding drywall material. Allow to dry completely.

Sand smooth. Wipe wall down with a dry rag or towel to remove all dust.

Apply affected region using a primer sealer paint. Allow to dry thoroughly.

Spray texture above the affected drywall places, feathering the texture into surrounding areas by spraying brief, light strokes.

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The way to Convert Chrome to a Brushed Nickel Finish

Painting over chrome, as if it were any other type of metal finish, may seem like a simple project initially. However, paint can peel away or sometimes does not adhere well at all. It is possible to convert a chrome finish to a brushed nickel finish with a level nickel spray paint, but the surface needs proper preparation of the chrome in order to get the paint to stick. Preparing includes cleaning off all of the grime, thoroughly sanding the chrome, and then priming it with a self-etching primer.

Clean the chrome pieces extensively using a household cleaner and soft cloth. Wipe the pieces dry using a soft cloth.

Set a few sheets of paper outdoors on a non-windy day, or on a work surface at a well-ventilated area.

Sand the chrome pieces extensively using medium-grit sandpaper or a sanding block, followed by fine-grit sandpaper. Scuff the end up marginally. This makes it easier for the primer to adhere to the chrome. Wipe off the pieces with paper towels to remove particles.

Cover any regions of the pieces you do not wish to paint with painter’s tape. Set each piece atop the paper.

Shake the primer may as recommended in the manufacturer’s instructions. Prime every cohesive object by holding the primer can 12 to 18 inches away, moving your arm in slow, even lines to pay for the objects extensively. Allow primer to dry completely. Flip the pieces to prime areas you have missed, if needed, allowing this coat to dry as well. Sand the dried primer using fine-grit sandpaper when the instructions recommend it.

Shake the nickel spray paint may vigorously for a minute or 2, or as recommended by the manufacturer. Paint each piece in smooth, even arm movements, holding the can 12 to 18 inches apart in the project as you paint. Allow paint to dry at least 30 minutes or as recommended by the manufacturer, then paint on one or two layers, as desired.

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The way to Stop Carpet Pile By Flattening

Once your carpet pile gets flat, it can take expert help to revive it to its former fresh and fluffy state. Keep your carpets looking fresh by taking a set of steps to maintain your family’s feet and furniture from causing unattractive and possibly permanent flat spots on your carpet. Some wear and tear is regular, and carpet will require routine cleaning. However, you can prevent the worst of all the marks with attention and maintenance.

Keep It Moving

Carpet pile gets flattened when heavy objects sit on it for quite a while, so make it a point to slightly adjust heavy furniture periodically to prevent flat spots. Either move your furniture just a few inches every few weeks, or rearrange your room entirely to keep your carpet from wearing unevenly and causing flat spots. Try to create new walkways between your furniture, as high traffic can cause flattening of larger areas. When you move your furniture, then lift it up entirely off the carpet instead of pulling it to prevent causing additional wear on it that may cause more flattening.

Vacuum and Fluff

While you are rearranging your room or moving your furniture to prevent flat spots, vacuum the region beneath your furniture to maintain the carpet pile fluffed up and looking fresh. Vacuuming not only removes dirt that causes carpet fibers to get matted down, but it also pulls carpet fibers back up through suction to maintain your carpets clean and fresh fluffy. Vacuum high-traffic areas daily if possible to remove dirt and lift carpet fibers back up, as continuous wear and tear from loved ones and guests walking and monitoring dirt on these areas can cause flattening quickly.

Spreading the Weight

Castor cups maintain your furniture from slipping around on hardwood flooring, but they also protect your carpet and help prevent flat spots. Put castor cups above your couch legs to spread the weight of their heavy furniture above a larger carpet area. You’ll still need to rearrange your furniture, but it will take more for a deep indentation than it might with smaller legs pressing harder to your carpet pile. You can also choose furniture with wider bases and wider legs to spread the weight more evenly over the carpet.

Get Steamed Up

If you notice flat spots forming beneath your furniture even though your ancient prevention, then treat them instantaneously to stop them from becoming heavier and more permanent. Put a damp towel above dents and conduct an iron over top to steam the fibers. Use your fingers or a fork to lift the carpet fibers right up again. As an alternative, you can rub an ice cube above the flat spots and then fluff with your fingers. In case you have a larger high-traffic place, then add a runner rug above the region to safeguard the carpet under from prying.

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The Best Clematis to Boost With Jasmine

There are about 200 different types of jasmine plants, such as evergreen, semi-evergreen and deciduous shrubs and shrubs. This olive family member grows best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 9, producing clusters of fragrant white, yellow or pink flowers from spring through fall. Most jasmine plants need full sunlight to light shade, regular watering and decent soil to grow strongly. Clematis plants prefer the same growing conditions as jasmine and produce a fantastic companion plant. The very best clematis plants to grow with jasmine plants are determined by the wide variety of the desired color scheme.

Blue Clematis

Blue flowering clematis vines create the very best contrast with yellow jasmine flowers. 1 companionable clematis comprises the marsh clematis (Clematis crispa), which grows best in USDA zones 5 through 11. This deciduous climbing 10-foot-long vine produces purplish-blue bell-shaped flowers throughout the summer. Sapphire Indigo clematis (Clematis “Cleminov 51”), in USDA zones 5 through 9, creates a constant flowering show of blue summer flowers on a vine 4 feet tall.

Dark Clematis

Dark-colored clematis plants make a high contrast for white-colored plants. Jackman clematis (Clematis x jackmanii) grows best in USDA zones 4 through 9, creating dark-purple flowers from summer through fall. This 18-foot-long deciduous vine needs help to accelerate walls, trellises and arbors. “Julka” clematis (Clematis x “Julka”) grows rich, velvety dark-purple blossoms with petals marked with a deep purplish-red stripe. This 6- year to 9-foot-long vine grows well in USDA zones 4 through 9, attracting butterflies throughout the summer.

Purple Clematis

Purple clematis flowers look visually satisfying when matched with pink varieties. 1 illustration is the Piilu clematis (Clematis x “Small Duckling”), that creates purple petals with pink edges on a 6-foot-long vine. The first annual flush of flowers appear as dual flowers, but after through the season only single flowers look. Versailles clematis (Clematis x “Evipo025”) grows large 4- to 6-foot-wide purple blossoms from late spring through early fall on a 3- year to 4-foot-high vine in USDA zones 4 through 9.

White Clematis

White clematis flowers go well with any colour of jasmine, creating a bright spot in the garden. 1 summer flowering clematis is the “Alba Luxurians” clematis (Clematis viticella “Alba Luxurians”), which grows strongly in USDA zones 4 through 9. This 8- to 12-foot-long vine creates clusters of pinwheel-shaped flowers. Sweet Autumn clematis (Clematis terniflora), in USDA zones 5 through 11, flowers from summer through fall, creating white star-shaped flowers reaching 1 inch across on this 10- to 15-foot-long vine.

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The Best Kind of Blueberries to Plant

Blueberry bushes have to have a cool rest or chill period with temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit to produce berries. The best kind of blueberries for your own garden ought to be determined based on the customary length of trendy winter weather in your town. Southern highbush (Vaccinium formosum) blueberry species are generally best for warm Mediterranean climates. There are many different southern highbush varieties, though, with different growth habits and chill requirements. Other factors to be considered are your blueberry size and taste preferences and whether or not the bush will be included in a landscaped area.

Pollination Requirements

You need a minimum of two unique kinds of blueberry shrubs planted near each other for the best blueberry production. Some blueberry varieties require cross-pollination, and all blueberry varieties, such as self-pollinating kinds, will produce a better, more plentiful blueberry harvest using another cultivar planted nearby. Blueberry bush varieties with different ripening times could be implanted for cross-pollination and also to expand the harvest season.

Medium-Large Blueberries

The “Marimba” and “Jewel” southern highbush cultivars are two of the best kinds of blueberry bushes for company, medium-large blueberries with as few as 150 hours of chill time. “Marimba” is an ancient variety with flavorful berries which ripen in May. “Jewel” is a really early variety with berries ripening in April. Its berries can be picked just before they fully ripen for tart flavor, or allowed to ripen fully to get a more sweet taste.

Big Blueberries

The “O’Neal” southern highbush cultivar is one of the best kind of blueberry bushes for early-season, very large berries. It takes just 200 to 300 hours of chill and does well when planted inland or along the California shore. The bushes grow to a height of 6 feet with reddish stems and gray-green foliage. The berries have a sweet, mild taste.

Landscape-Quality Bushes

The “Misty” and “Sunshine Blue” southern highbush cultivars are two of the best kinds of lemons to plant in your home landscape. They have attractive bright pink flower buds and dark green foliage. “Misty” is an early-bearing bush with an erect growth habit which creates little to medium berries with a tart taste. It takes about 200 hours of winter chill to produce berries. “Sunshine Blue” is an early to midseason bush with a compact, weeping growth habit. It takes just 150 chill hours and creates little, tangy berries. With a mature height of only 3 feet, it may be expanded in a 5-gallon container on a deck or terrace.

Dwarf Blueberry Bush

“Top Hat” (V. angustifolium x V. corymbosum “Top Hat”) is a lowbush-northern highbush hybrid. It is among the best kind of blueberry bushes for growing at which space is very limited. This blueberry bush grows to a mature height of just 1 1/2 to 2 feet. It takes about 800 hours, or four to five weeks, of chill time to produce berries. The light blue, mild-flavored berries are small and ripen at midseason. This blueberry bush additionally provides fall foliage interest with leaves which change to bright red.

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