The way to Install an In-Line Vent at a Kitchen Sink

Plumbing drains require proper ventilation, typically through pipes that extend to the roof to allow air into the drain lines to equalize the pressure and allow grey water to drain. In some instances, such as a kitchen sink that was improperly vented when first installed, running a new vent line to the roof might not be feasible. For these cases, you may install an in-line vent in a kitchen sink utilizing a one-way valve, called a mini vent, that allows air into the line but never back out.

Clean out the cabinet beneath the kitchen sink. Put a towel directly beneath the drain line. Loosen the couplers and eliminate the P-trap and tailpiece from the sink drain line.

Cut a 3-inch section of 1 1/2-inch PVC pipe, then using a PVC cutter along with a hacksaw. Implement PVC primer to a end of this 3-inch section and to the interior of the drain coupler in the wall beneath the sink. Implement PVC glue across the primed portion of this 3-inch piece and add it halfway into the coupler.

Prime the exposed stub of this installed 3-inch piece of PVC in addition to the lower coupler of a 1 1/2-inch wye connector. Place the PVC across the stub and attach the wye to the stub. Verify the lead-in coupler of the wye is pointing upward toward the sink basin.

Measure the distance between the wye lead-in coupler and the bottom of the sink. Subtract 4 ins from this space. Cut a section of 1 1/2-inch PVC to this span. Prime and connect a 1 1/2-inch threaded feminine PVC coupler to a single end of this section of PVC.

Thread a mini vent into the threaded female coupler and tighten the vent to the coupler as firmly as you can, using your own hand. Prime the opposite end of this section of PVC to that the vent is attached, in addition to the very best coupler of the wye beneath the sink. Apply glue to the end of this primed section of PVC and put in this vent tube into the coupler on top of the wye.

Thread the sink tailpiece to the bottom of the sink and then hand-tighten that the coupler. Dry-fit the sink trap involving the bottom end of the tailpiece and the open end of the wye connector. Cut the trap tube so the trap fits nicely between the tailpiece and the wye. Combine the tube between the tailpiece and the wye by massaging the couplers.

Turn on the tap and drain water through the sink drain while watching for leaks anywhere in the drain line beneath the sink. Remove the towel and then replace the contents of this sink cabinet.

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Project on Growing Lentil Seeds

A member of the legume family, lentils (Lens culinaris) and their relatives — including legumes, beans and peas — are cultivated around the globe for more than 6,000 decades. A self-supporting vine, lentil plants may reach 18 to 24 inches tall, with all 2-inch chemical leaves and beautiful white, lilac or blue blooms. Select from any one of these 13 cultivars available for planting to start a fun project of growing lentils for seeds.

Journal

Treat yourself to a gorgeous notebook and a wonderful pen. Use it to diary all of the fascinating things that happen during the planting and harvesting season. Include simple sketches, if you love drawing. Look at documenting things such as how long it took seeds to germinate, plant height and defining features at weekly intervals, when the first flowers appeared, seed pod length and the number of seeds in each, seasonal rain, when pods are ready to harvest and the time of day the flowers typically open.

Growing Lentils

Within a Mediterranean climate, plant this cool-season harvest two to three weeks before the final average frost date, or in the summer season as a winter harvest. With an 80- to 110-day growing year, lentils germinate and grow best when daytime temperatures are 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant seeds 1/2 inch deep in a well-drained bed in full sun or partial shade. Space seeds one inch apart, thinning them to four to six inches apart when the plants reach a height of 6 inches. Preserve row spacing of 18 to 24 inches to prevent powdery mildew development, which may affect plants spaced too closely. Control weeds with a thick layer of mulch and keep the soil moist until flowers appear — then stop watering unless it is very dry. Side dress with compost when the plants are approximately 6 inches tall and when flowers first originate. Even though aphids and weevils can bother lentils, they’re free from serious diseases.

Protecting Seeds

Lentils are self-pollinating. In moist, fertile places where there are lots of other blooms for your insects to visit, and where no other beans are being grown — peanuts, peas, beans — you do not need to worry about cross-pollination. When it is a concern, cover the plants with a cage made of rigid wire molded into half-circles and thrust to the ground. Cover the wire with a floating row cover or a soft window display. Instead, use tomato cages covered with row cover or display and attached together with clothespins. Save seeds from the healthiest plants — those that are proven to thrive in your climate. To acquire the strongest seed stock, be ruthless about culling; after plants are approximately 6 inches tall, pull any that are stunted.

Harvesting Seeds

In 80 to 110 days, the seed pods will mature and the plants will begin to die back. Allow the pods to dry on the plant. Seeds that crack when you hit them with a hammer are absolutely dry, while some that mash require more drying time. If a frost is imminent and the pods are still moist, then pull the entire plant and hang it upside down in a warm place until the forks are thoroughly dry. To separate the seeds from the pods, place the forks at a pillow case, tie it close and jog on it. Winnow by pouring this seed mixture from basket to basket facing a fan set on “medium .” Put a large sheet beneath you while you’re working to capture the chaff. Store the seeds in 0 degrees Fahrenheit or colder for five or more days to eliminate the bean weevils that are commonly present in lentils.

Seed Packets

Once you’ve grown lentils especially adapted to your region and saved their seeds, feature your hard-earned intellect on custom-made seed bundles. Blank packets are available online, or you may make your own with some glue. Include everything that you’ve learned, taking the very fascinating information from your notebook. In addition to planting advice, consider adding sketches and descriptions of all the plants, their blooms and their seed pods. These can be stored in a cool dark place like a refrigerator, given away as gifts or sold.

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What Types of Fruit Are Available in Ultra Dwarf Trees?

If you dream of growing your own fruit, but do not have space in your garden for a full-length tree, think about planting an ultra dwarf fruit tree. These trees grow on particular root inventory which keeps the plant from getting bigger compared to 3 to 6 feet tall. Ultra dwarf trees are typically grown in containers, which makes them an excellent selection for patio gardens and handy to move into a sheltered location to protect them from harsh weather. The most important concern with ultra dwarf trees is choosing which kind of fruit to grow.

Apples

Familiar types of apples such as Fuji and Red Delicious can be increased on ultra dwarf rootstock. For something a bit different, it is possible to try apples such as Anna, Golden Dorsett or Beverly Hills. But apple trees aren’t self-fertile, so you’re going to need to buy two trees if you’d like your plant to bear fruit. It’s ideal to choose two different varieties for improved pollination. The ultra dwarf apple Ein Shemer is self-fertile, but creates more fruit in case you have another variety for pollination.

Pears

The taste of a store-bought pear can’t compare with the hot flavor of a freshly picked one. You can choose from European pears such as Bartlett, d’Anjou and Kieffer or sharp Asian pears. Even though blacks are self-fertile, your tree will produce more fruit should you buy two trees of different kinds. But Asian pears and European pears do not cross-pollinate nicely, so choose both Asian pear trees or two European trees, none of each.

Stone Fruit

If you like cherries, plums, peaches and other stone fruits, but hate the prices at the grocery shop, you’ll be happy to know you are able to grow all these fruits as ultra dwarf trees. Cherry varieties incorporate the self-fertile Bing cherry which does not require another tree for pollination. Other self-fertile stone fruits for sale as ultra dwarf trees comprise peaches, nectarines and apricots. Plums typically require two trees for pollination. Although trees may state they are self-fertile, remember that fruit production will be higher when there’s cross-pollination between two varieties of the same fruit tree.

Ultra Dwarf Care

Ultra dwarf trees must be planted in a container that is 18 inches in diameter or 18 inches square. The container must have drainage holes to avoid root rot from soggy soil. Place your tree in which it can receive at least 6 hours of sun each day and where it’ll be protected from heavy winds. Water your trees deeply whenever the top two inches of soil feel dry and feed the trees with a balanced fertilizer once per month during the growing season. You can control your trees’ contour and stature by fortifying either in the winter or in early spring.

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Different types of Interlocking Pavers

Interlocking pavers are made so every paver fits to the following, like a puzzle pieces. Since they fit snugly together, interlocking pavers can be installed with no brick. Interlocking pavers come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors, but they may be categorized into three basic types based on what they’re made from.

Natural Stone

Natural stone pavers, made from granite, limestone, flagstone and fieldstone, would be the most expensive type of interlocking paver, but provide an attractive, natural aesthetic. Organic stone comes in a range of colors, shapes and sizes, and doesn’t fade or weather the way dyed concrete or brick pavers will. But natural stone pavers vary in density, based on the type of stone, so some may not be durable enough for driveways or high-traffic areas. They’re better suited to patios and garden paths where the stones aren’t exposed to heavy weights.

Brick

Brick pavers are typically made of baked clay. They’re traditionally rectangular and end, as you would connect building bricks for a wall. Interlocking brick pavers are durable and can withstand high pressure, which makes them a great choice for high-traffic areas, like driveways and walkways. While brick pavers are resistant to stains, they are prone to efflorescence, which is a white, chalky substance that results from the incisions inside the brick. Sweeping and periodic washing with a strong spray of water may keep efflorescence from becoming a problem.

Concrete

Concrete pavers come in many different shapes and sizes, and are made from molded concrete that is combined with an aggregate. The range in shapes and sizes enables you to create a more complex, distinctive pattern. Concrete pavers also come in several colors, and they’re simple to install and maintain. Concrete pavers are the cheapest type of interlocking paver. Concrete interlocking pavers are durable for use in driveways and other areas of high traffic, but has to be sealed to retain their color.

Care Tips

All 3 types of interlocking pavers are nearly maintenance-free, but there are a few things that you can do to prolong the life span of the pavers and enhance their look. Regular sweeping and rinsing prevents stains and keeps the colors bright. Concrete pavers need redesigning to reduce staining and fading, and although some can be found pre-sealed, you may have to reapply after a couple of years. Brick and natural stone pavers don’t typically need sealing, but if you’ve used brick pavers in a region where oil or grease may fall on them, redesigning may prevent stains. Cracked pavers can usually be removed and replaced, rather than trying to repair the crack with concrete patches or brick.

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The way to Upholster a Rocker

Upholstered rocking chairs come in various styles, from streamlined bentwood chairs to fully-upholstered versions that are like club chairs to a rocking or swivel base. The current condition varies, also. If your chair is in good condition, you might be able to simply staple fresh material above the existing fabric or padding. If the chair is badly deteriorated, however, it might take a complete teardown and rebuild. The basic steps are like all chairs, however you will need to observe the specific manner your chair is constructed. Taking photos as you see and tear down the old upholstery provides you a reference when you reconstruct the chair.

Protect your work place by spreading a dropcloth, tarp or old sheet on the ground. Place the rocker on the tarp and examine the chair to determine what state it’s in and the way the current material is attached. Take photos from all angles to serve as references when you replace the cloth. You can also tag each cloth section with a marker to ease the task of reconstructing the upholstery. In addition, note the order in which the pieces were attached, which usually is from top to bottom and from inside to outside to rear.

Remove the fabric in the rocker, setting the pieces apart to serve as patterns for the new material. Some rockers, like bentwood and glider rockers, possess the material attached to another board which you can eliminate from unscrewing the board in the rear or underside of the chair. Most other rockers have the material attached with staples or tacks, which you have to remove individually with a screwdriver, pliers or staple puller. Set the old staples and tacks in a safe container as you remove every one.

Repair the wooden frame as needed. This might be as simple as tightening loose screws, or it may involve replacing lost or damaged wooden parts, removing outdated, deteriorated batting, replacing webbing or replacing and retying springs. You can paint, stain or refinish the wood, if needed, after the repairs are completed.

Pin the old cloth pieces to the brand new material, placing the old cloth right-side down to the reverse side of this new fabric. Allow adequate spacing between pieces so it’s possible to cut a 1- to 3-inch perimeter around each. Cut out the pieces. Be generous when cutting your margin — you can always cut off the excess when attaching the pieces to the rocker.

Replace the cushioning as needed. Most chairs will gain greater comfort if you include a layer of cotton quilt batting over the existing cushioning.

Attach the new fabric pieces to the chair, working in the order in which the original pieces were attached. Use a power-assisted staple gun and pull the cloth over the cushioning so it’s smooth but not overly-tight. If you eliminated a seat or rear panel in the chair, then reattach the panel with screws after stapling the fabric above it.

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The best way to Cover Kitchen Chairs Using Burlap Fabric

Burlap fabric lends a homespun touch when you use it to cover kitchen chair seat cushions, however you could also sew a slipcover that surrounds the whole chair to guard it. The method you choose is dependent upon the final look you’re after. After quantifying for the yardage, prewash and dry the burlap to shrink it before cutting, and eliminate shredded strands.

Measure First

If you plan to only cover the seat cushions, then measure the dimensions of a single seat cushion. This may require that you remove it from the chair. Turn the chair upside-down to examine how the seat is held in place. Often, staples or small nails may keep the seat cushion attached to the chair body. Eliminate the attachments with a similar tool. Measure across the width and length of the seat cushion. Add 2 to 3 inches to every measurement, since you’ll need to bend the cloth over the cushion to staple it on the back. Multiply the longest measurement by the number of chairs to figure out the total number of feet needed. To calculate yardage, divide by three. Select fabric that is at least 45 inches wide.

Disassemble the Cushion

Remove the staples or upholstery nails from the back of the chair to release the cover you’re replacing. Peel the old fabric away. Iron it flat so you can use it as a template for cutting out the new seat cushion covers. Examine the padding to check whether it needs replacing. In that case, replace it, then using the old padding to calculate the amount you require. Cut out the seat covers for the chairs with the old cover as a template.

Re-Cover the Chair

Insert the newest padding, in the event that you decided on this option, and cover one seat cushion using the cutout piece of burlap. Turn the seat over and put a staple on just one side. Pull the cloth taut across the top and then insert a staple on the back, opposite the one previously added, after the cloth is as firm as you want it on the seat cushion. Repeat for the top and bottom so that when completed you must have four staples which represent noon, 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock over the back of the seat. Keep adding staples until the cloth is smoothed across the seat. Because you staple, fold beneath the borders to protect against the burlap from shredding on its raw edges. Duplicate for every cushion.

Slipcovers for Chairs

The other alternative is to make slipcovers for the kitchen chairs. Pick up enough burlap to create a template to follow every chair after quantifying the seat’s dimensions. Treat the legs and seat of this chair as a box along with the chair back as a rectangle using the cover which slides over it. Measure and cut out fabric to the front of the chair back, to get the seat and for three sides which hang from the seat. You can use a single piece to cover the seat and two of the sides. Measure and cut on a longer piece which runs from the surface of the chair back to the ground, and teeming with the three sides. Pin the fabric together on the chair, leaving enough borders to get a seam allowance and hems. Cut to fit as necessary. Use that as the template to sew covers for every chair. You can add ties to either side of the chair back to link behind the chair, if needed.

Burlap Factors

After you wash burlap, it begins to fray at the edges. You don’t need to clean the cloth in the event that you just intend to create seat cushions — burlap is so cheap you can just replace as needed. For slipcovers, though, cut away the frayed edges following washing, and sew in where the fraying starts to maintain the burlap from coming apart. As a loose weave, without sewing the borders, burlap will continue to fray.

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Sewing Instructions for Curtain Tiebacks

As a simple sewing project, curtain tiebacks make an opportunity for novice seamstresses or crafters to find out the ins and outs of a sewing machine. Basic long rectangular ties will take you only a couple of minutes, and you’ll have curtain tiebacks that can modify the look of your window treatments. Utilize a 1/2 lawn of the curtain fabric for the tiebacks, or pick a coordinating or contrasting color for pizazz.

Pull back each curtain and hold it in the place that indicates where you plan to install the curtain tieback. Hold one end of the soft tape measure against the wall where the hook will opt for the curtain tieback. Keep it in place as you gently wrap it around the curtain you’re holding. Note the measurement. You can correct the tape measure tighter or looser based on the look you want — only ensure that you be aware of the right measurement if you change the curtain of the curtain.

Add 1 inch to the measurement of the looped tape measure. As an example, if you measured 15 inches, allow it to be 16 inches to adapt a 1/2 inch seam at either end. Calculate the width you want the tieback to be. For instance, if you’d like a 2-inch broad tieback, you’ll need a 4-inch broad piece of fabric with an added 1/2 inch for the side seam, for a final effect of 4 1/2 inches broad. If you want a 3-inch broad tieback, make the cutout width 6 1/2 inches broad.

Place the fabric on a folding cutting board. Mark the span measurement with a pin at the top along with the width measurement at the top, middle and bottom stage. Use the grid on the cutting board to cut out the extended rectangular tie. For this tieback instance, you’re going to want a rectangular piece of fabric 4 1/2 inches wide and 16 inches long. Utilize the first cutout fabric for a pattern for the moment, putting it across the fabric and cutting it around.

Fold the tieback in half with the appropriate sides together, and sew a straight stitch 1/2 inch in from the edge on the sewing machine, following the marks onto the bottom plate under the fabric. At either end, push the reverse button on the sewing machine to go backward with your stitches. This locks at the end seams and prevents them from pulling apart. Sew one end in the exact same fashion as the side seam, running the machine in reverse at either border to lock the stitches.

Cut away the selvedge to within 1/4 inch of the stitching. Turn the tieback inside out, but bend the open end over the sewn part, working down it till the tieback is right side out.

Fold under the unsewn border 1/2 inch. Pin it in place and whip-stitch it shut by hand with small stitches to fill out the tieback. Repeat the sewing steps for the second tieback.

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The Do's and Don'ts of Feng Shui in Closets

If your life seems unbalanced or chaotic, your closets may be to blame. For optimum feng shui or energy stream, have a look at your closets’ doors and contents, which may be keeping you alert or causing unnecessary grief. Explore comparatively simple approaches to redirect the room’s flow and help you get back on the right track.

Reflecting on Energy

Mirror-clad bedroom cupboard doors are a feng shui no-no, representing yang energy, which influences relationship, sleep and closeness, explains Ann Bingley Gallops, a New York city feng-shui consultant. Rather than replacing the cupboard doors, simply hang drapes in front of them. That way you can close the drapes before climbing into bed, and then open them once you get up. Should you prefer, cover the mirror with peel-and-stick frosted paper or with wallpaper. Pink, green and blue provide ideal feng-shui curtain or wallpaper colours, representing numerous emotions, including love and elegance.

Uncluttered, Unstressed

Clutter can disrupt positive energy, causing unnecessary anxiety, and few areas are as cluttered as closets. Should you open the cupboard door and do not know where to start, it’s best to remove everything. As you do this, sort each item into boxes or stacks, like what you will keep, what you no longer want or need, what you intend to donate to charity or market, and things you intend to throw away. As you return things to the cupboard, do this orderly, using woven bins to stay small litter items smartly out of direct sight.

Hanger Hangups and Solutions

Something as apparently trivial as cupboard hangers can enhance feng shui flow. Match the hanger with its clothes. As an instance, use durable wood hangers for heavy coats or suits, and satin-covers hangers for lightweight dresses or dresses. Rather than using hangers, use hooks to make space and enhance cabinet organization. To help closet clutter, put in a cabinet organizer program to help keep your wardrobe accessible and organized.

Color-Coordinated Closets

Color plays an important part in feng shui, even within the cupboard. Rainbows, for instance, symbolize blessing, hope, and a good future. Instead of opening your cupboard doors to a chaotic mixture of colours, organize your clothes, using the rainbow as a guide — red, orange, yellow, blue, green, indigo and purple, and then black and white — to boost your home’s energy.

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Are Floating Bathroom Vanities Classic or Trendy?

Just as fashion is continually changing and developing new styles, new layouts and decor eventually become the tendencies of the moment. However when a design attribute or component has stood the test of time and was judged to be of the maximum quality, then it earns a timeless designation. When something is trendy — as with floating bathroom vanities — only time can answer the question as to whether it turns into a vintage or not.

Trendy Bathrooms

A floating vanity will not match in just anyone’s house. Due to their clean, minimalistic look, floating vanities function best in residences currently designed in a modern manner. Contemporary decor elements constantly change, featuring tendencies of the moment that stick to simplistic types and functions. Contemporary residences contain clean, linear surfaces, tons of neutrals, as well as the use of contemporary furnishings and accents.

Classic Bathrooms

Most everyone recognizes these classics in a toilet: a claw-foot tub, pedestal sink or full-sized vanity. A feature of vintage bathroom layout that is trendy at the time of publication entails repurposing; a sink is added into an old thrift-store footed dresser, an antique sideboard or a buffet to transform the piece into a vanity. These pieces have their backs opened to accommodate the pipes inside the dresser when placed against the wall. The cabinet spaces under the sinks put to the closet or dresser allow for plenty of storage area.

Freed-up Space

The main benefit of a floating vanity is the illusion of space it produces in the room; the room seems bigger because of the light that passes under it. In a small bathroom where space is currently a superior, adding strip or spot lighting under the floating vanity helps to boost the illusion of additional space. It also makes the toilet less cluttered and simpler, rendering it less difficult to maintain clean, a plus in any residence.

The Negatives

A floating vanity lacks storage area — a glaring disadvantage — especially when toilet storage is at a premium. Floating vanities require special installation to ensure they remain on the wall, meaning they have to be tied to the studs behind the wall, so requiring the help of a contractor. And while the wall-mounted vanity is a new fixture in most homes, it might or might not pass from fashion. Due to its particular mounting conditions, floating vanities are more expensive than conventional vanities, a consideration if this trend goes down the drain.

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German Salt-Glazed Pottery Marks

Now, salt glazing is called”vapor glazing,” a title that the technique received in the sodium vapors due to the salt the potter throws into the kiln once the pottery reaches elevated temperatures during its first or second shooting. Creates a high-gloss, dimpled effect on the design, sometimes finely hand-painted decorations in blue brown or purple. Flip the piece to start looking for a maker’s mark which identifies it as a product.

Hyphenated Amounts

Though maker’s marks were not contained by many of those very first pieces from Germany, many of the later pieces did. More modern day German potters often showcased the nation, such as”W. Germany,” on the base of the thing along with hyphenated numbers. The number identified the contour of that the pottery, while the number usually called the product’s height in centimeters, which will be sufficient for collectors to divine the thing’s maker. To get salt-glazed beer steins, the mark might seem as numbers or stamped or punched initials on the pewter lid.

Manufacturer’s Marks

Marks, etched imprinted, written or drawn on the base of the pottery, included include hexagrams, circles and tall rectangles. For instance, one imprint indicates the words in a circle:”Saltglazed Stoneware W. Germany,” horizontally dissected by the title”Goebel.” Some beer stein marks, as an instance, are indicated :”425/1 Reinil Merkelbach Höhr-Grenzhausen.” Another frequent mark is that the cobalt blue crossed swords used by Meissen, with a number of the original marks resembling a fancy”A” and”R,” intricately combined. In the 20th century, many of the marks on German salt-glazed pottery were ink-stamped on the base of the piece. These marks could include the title of the potter who designed the series, the town or district of Germany where the piece originated, and also the numbers.

German Pottery

German-made salt-glazed pottery’s qualities might be all that will help identify the design, especially when many early German pottery-makers did not put their marks. The very first step in identifying German earthenware or stoneware begins with analyzing the piece. Start looking dimpled like skin’s appearance or a orange peel, dependent on which side faced the heat from the kiln. Germans perfected the salt-glazing process, which was later taken up across England and America during the 18th century. Some German pieces had marks stamped in capital letters which state:”Reinh. Merkelbach. Made in French Zone of Germany.”

Distinguishing Characteristics

Potters added and room baskets and decoration and colour together with imagery using iron oxide cobalt oxide or oxide. The cobalt oxide turns a brilliant blue when covered and fired by the salt caused by the sodium vapors. The most frequent colour was a brown. To identify makers’ marks, then you might need to choose your German pottery piece or study the marks in publications or online.

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